Mauboussin (2000)
by Mauboussin

I initially tried an EdT decanted sample. I found it to be a lack-luster gourmand, just plain and boring, and I completely dismissed the fragrance. Upon the urging of a friendly fumie, I tried it again. But this time, I tried the EdP.

Mauboussin EdP is a wonderful fruity oriental. The fruit accords on top are full of depth and texture. It is predominantly patchouli & incense early on, although the vanilla & tobacco is clearly there. Several hours into a wear, I get a predominately powderly vanilla which immediately reminds be of Guerlain L'Instant. Those who enjoy other Nagel fragrances, such as JDP In Black, Theorema, and to a lesser extent Lalique Encre Noire, will recognize the similar accords used in those fragrances appearing here in Mauboussin.

Mauboussin is a fragrance for cold nights and winter days. With an integrated cap that twists to spray, testers are a safe purchase. In the States, 50ml testers are available for about $20 and 100ml NIB are available for $30-35 from reputable e-tailers. Mauboussin is a must-have for anyone who likes this style of fragrance or Christine Nagel creations. However, get the EdP, not the EdT.

25th September, 2011.

Mauboussin is a big-boned inedible fruity oriental. It doesn’t always strike me as appealing, but it’s always striking. The fruit, plummy, peachy, mandarin, is just a bit rotten. It’s turned fruit that smells good in a brandy-like way but also warns you that it’s no longer edible. Actually, boozy isn’t quite it. Turned fruit and benzoin together smell to me like bitter, alcohol based herbal tinctures. It’s all a reflection of that push-pull food-but not-edible quality that the only gourmands I like seem to have.

The dissonance lasts to drydown when dusty cedar and sweet patchouli fight for the dominant woody tone. Mauboussin is not so much either conflicted or indecisive as ready to pounce one way or the other at a given moment.

11th August, 2011. (Last Edited: 15th October, 2011.)

What a wonderfully radiant scent this is! I have the EDT and it lasts forever! It never ceases to put a smile on my face at first spritz. The sandalwood, vanilla, patchouli dry down follows me around all day like my own personal sunshine. How lovely is that?

29th April, 2011.

I am an instant fan of this scent, which I finally bought blind as the EDP. I have been brought full-circle back to it, via the men's scents, Mauboussin Homme and Mauboussin M Generation, which I bought after becoming curious about the popularity of the women's scent.

First of all, let me say that there is a house homage here, which I could smell as soon as I opened the box. There is a certain bit of spice and lavender which links it to the men's scents, but it's a tiny, tiny point, and forget that I even said lavender, because you probably won't find it if you haven't smelled the men's. No, this is a wonderful "flormand", which reminds me greatly of L'Instant de Guerlain. Those who call this unisex are quite right - I find this one more unisex and less floral than L'Instant (pour femme) EDT, which I think of as barely feminine. There is a bit of resemblance to some of the richer By Kilian scents - maybe half of them, so I won't single any out. Mauboussin is sweet, sharp, rich, and warm. Many people sense tobacco, but that's a very generic note - I would agree, even though I don't call it tobacco. It does smell like something that would be extraordinary in scenting pipe tobacco - I'll say that. Very sweet and fruity, but not in the sickly, sweet-tooth way of modern candyfloss feminines. More like honey, or honeysuckle. Maybe a touch of caramel, but not as an obvious gourmand. A bit like Dior Addict EDP in some ways - more in the feel than in the scent itself. Oriental but not ambery. It really works on my skin, too.

Honestly, a guy who wears this is going to smell unique and like a million bucks. This one reminds me of a slew of excellent men's dressy scents - Tom Ford private collection such as Noir de Noir and Tobacco Vanille, for starters. Black Orchid, Tom Ford, Tom Ford Extreme - this one falls within sight of them all. It has the classy borderline feminine feel of some nice masculines like Tiffany for Men and Derby, although neither the style nor the obvious complexity of these, nor the haze of any smoke as in the latter. I do get the rose on occasion - just a couple of facets - even more skeletal than Egoiste, and hidden under all the other things going on, which are legion. But - surprisingly - it's all very harmonious. I don't sense any discord in the thing. As people often say, blended nicely.

The bottle is cute in a Star Trek way - it has the coolness of the men's bottles, but some kind of feminine jewlery cuteness that truly rocks, yet it doesn't shout unicorns and pony puffs. Really fits the hand - I'll bet I could throw it a mile or skip it off a pond. See? It's unisex! Totally, dudes!

17th April, 2011.

I will agree with other reviewers that this is easily an oriental unisex scent. I also get the "vanilla tobacco" observed but not in the list of notes.

It is sweet but not masculine or feminine in either direction.

The top notes are sweet and floral with middle notes in which the peach, jasmine, rose and ylang-ylang stand out. In the finish, there is rich, warm amber, sandalwood, cedar and vanilla.

In my opinion, this is a much overlooked scent and easily available online at discounters. This is a must-try scent for lovers of sweet orientals.

5th March, 2011.

Love this one. Sumptuous, sweet, honeyed-tobacco. DH grew up in the Middle East and says it smells like a traditional attar, as I think any serious oriental should.

2nd August, 2009.