Reviews of Habanita (1921)
by Molinard

I’ve now tried both the EDT and perfume extrait concentrations, and I still can’t make my mind up about Habanita.

Granted, this is a very rich and opulent oriental (consisting of vanilla, amber, leather, tobacco, light florals, vetiver and oakmoss), with the EDT being as potent as any respectable EDP. Unfortunately, its leans too much towards smelling old-fashioned and tends to spoil my enjoyment of it. I really do think you have to be in the right frame of mind to appreciate its qualities but (for such situations) it’s usually difficult to determine this until it’s too late.

Unlike other reviewers, I don’t have an issue with its powdery nature or with the EDT’s harsh opening nature (which I think is due to the lavender top notes). However, while there are times when I can appreciate it for what it is, there are also moments when I simply can’t – it’s just one of those Jekyll and Hyde fragrances that demands an acquired taste.

Habanita is most certainly a sophisticated and sensual scent but it often fails to completely (and consistently) captivate me to an acceptable degree – so much that I’ve long lost count of the number of times I’ve considered purchasing a bottle, only to later change my mind. There are very few fragrances that have the ability to both allure and dissuade me, in equal measure, and I’m afraid this is one of them.

It’s definitely a classic creation but its age is far too evident and, as much as I have wrestled with unconditionally admiring it, I have finally conceded defeat. However, regardless of my disappointment, I think anyone with an interest in perfumery should give Habanita a try at least once.

I own it for the great bottle. I have the EDT. There is no way I could ever pull this one off as a masculine. It is strong, sweet, powdery perfume. This is one that I would definitely associate with the old lady sweet powder perfume. Very well done, but I really don't see how anyone thinks this is unisex at all. Maybe the Pure Parfum is less powdery?

Instant time transport back to a different era--Habanita is an extremely nostalgic, perfumey-perfume consisting of a sweet powder and a strong tobacco accord. It is the scent of a couple, she wearing the powder and he holding the cigar, their bodies entwined on the dance floor of a nightclub in full swing. It's forceful stuff, too; not designed for the meek. My only complaint concerns the sour and bitter edge that it must wield order to avoid sliding into "ordinary" territory, making it less than enjoyable for everyday use. Perhaps I would wear it occasionally when I felt like dressing up naughty and making a statement, but Bandit already occupies that function for me. I can't say that I really like this, even though it is a marvellous work of art well worth preserving. A good experience, and I'm glad that many people find it more practical than I do.

This is a truly beautiful composition. Entirely out of the ordinary and surprisingly good quality. It has great longevity, still a whisper on the skin the next morning, and it has an appropriate, close ring of silage.

Top:
The opening is a strong blast of myrrh and smoke on me - a harsh, metallic and sweet smell, reminiscent of the taste of blood . . . Edited: I find that the harshness and smoke I smelled in the jus from my miniature bottles is replaced in my full bottle by a fresh verdant blast of forest greens and leathery notes, with a gentle powderiness and mild smoke that's at once chic and barbaric (in all the right ways).

Heart:
As this fragrance develops, the harshness of the top notes turns into clarity, and the smokiness takes hold in bonfire strength . . . Edited: again, in the full bottle, I find much less smoke, but instead the leather takes hold and vanillic qualities begin to come through . . . Leather begins to poke out over a bed of Turkish roses and other understated, but exquisite florals.

Base:
Vanilla comes out full-force and plays off still-strong smoke and rich leather notes. This vanilla has nothing sweet or gourmand about it - it is merely the grounding, human embrace to reign in the intimidation factor of the sexy, fierce confidence of the strong smoke and leather.

Character:
Habanita makes me feel like a wild woman out of an Angela Carter story – intensely sexual and entirely self-possessed. Much of our culture's associations with feminine strength is simply masculinity transposed to women or associations with nurturing motherliness- this fragrance, instead, is female potency, unapologetic, sinuous, sexy, and most importantly, strong.

This fragrance also happens to be downright mouth watering. It smells extremely pleasing, and so its sexuality and confidence is not intimidating. Because of its clarity and complete absence of girlish, candied, flowery, fruity or fresh notes, this fragrance can read as sophisticated and dressy as well as robust and sexy. It would be equally at home in daily life as an intelligent, cozy and sexy fragrance, or at the symphony or an upscale restaurant.

Pretty up close, but otherwise just baby powder on me. I'd much perfer Shalimar, more teeth to bite passers-by.

It´s hard for me to do either thumbs up or down for this one; it´s definitley one of the most fascinating scents I know. I keep adding a litte drop on the spot between the thumb and the other fingers, just to sniff and sniff and sniff. It has a loaded, almost vulgar kind of beauty. That mastic gum note sure is a prominent one, and together with leather, smoke, sweet fruits and fragrant flowers, it makes up a thick, narcotic brew. Habanita is as opaque as the bottle it comes in. I´m a great admirer, but I can´t wear it. Maybe I will be brave enough one day, but not now. It doesn´t matter how little I apply, I always feel like it´s wearing me instead.