Turin calls this a neon floral, gives it four stars, and goes on to say it is a fluorescent woody rose, reminiscent of Rabanne's La Nuit, "garish and excellent."
Barbara Herman calls it both a "hybrid floral oriental" and a "fruity chypre, loud and cacophonous."
I don't find it loud at all. I find it a perfectly balanced fruity/spicy chypre. The peach and plum are lusciously sweet, but kept in check by the drier cassis. The ginger, pepper and cardamom give it a caramel, burnt sugar sweetness, and the civet and castoreum in the base give it an old-fashioned flora/woody chypre quality - something from the 1940s.
Montana opened its house in 1979 and closed in 1997. Parfum de Peau was a re-working of their first scent, Montana. The title is odd in that it has no leather notes, nor does the scent of leather ever emerge. Go figure.
In any case, this is a delightful "original," both happy and grounded at the same time. A terrific scent for summer evening wear.
Top notes: Peach, Cassis, Plum, Pepper, Cardamom
Heart notes: Ginger, Rose, Tuberose, Jasmine, Ylang Ylang, Carnation
Base notes: Sandalwood, Patchouli, Vetiver, Civet, Castoreum, Amber, Musk, Olibanum
Parfum de Peau’s assertive aldehydic rose top notes smell “perfumey,” but the rose is rounded enough that they fall a few yards short of crass. As the composition infolds, Parfum de Peau expands into a powerful, opulent rose chypre, a genre that also counts Beautiful, Knowing, and Paris among its members. Parfum de Peau shares with this clan its dense rose, patchouli, and mossy-woody base notes, but where the others cling tenaciously to their gargantuan rose accords, the Montana turns more resinous and animalic with wear. What begins as an aldehydic floral pupates as a rose chypre, to emerge in the end as an ambery leather chypre. The wearing experience that results is at once more stimulating and less potentially tiresome than its more steadfastly consitent sisters. It helps too that Parfum de Peau, while tenacious, is marginally less loud than many of the other grand 1980s rose scents. It’s good and it’s cheap. What more could you ask for?
Parfum de Peau is an animalic rose chypre that wears its animal differently than other growly rose chypres. It's not so much a leather scent as a live skin scent. The scent of sweaty skin gives PdP a tannic quality. If you focus on just the rose, PdP is very similar to other big 80s monster roses and rose chypres. But the stinging slap of ripe skin is bolstered by the tart green feel of unripened fruit and together they create a deliberate imbalance. The acrid skin and the young fruit highlight the electric feel of the rose and PdP charges at you like it wants to eat you.
90’s edt version (I think- I don’t have the original box but my bottle is old and labeled made in France.)
+1 for Tott’s review, which is precise to my experience.
If you garden, you’ll recognize the tagete variety as “Orange Gem”.
Warning: For serious chypre lovers only, Parfum de Peau is a jolie laide.
I have a hard time reviewing a perfume I can't pronounce, but since my SO is one foot away I insisted he say this for me(he's French). The conversation went like this: (me) Pew? (him) Peau. (me) Pew. (him) Peau! (me) Peeuuuw (him) PEAU!
Whatever. Here is what I think of parfum de Pew. It opens harsh, so wait it out a bit. The top notes fade away after 20 minutes, and at this point the fragrance smells 'wet' to me. So, soggy, heavy florals with a hint of incense.
During the middle phase the incense becomes more prominent and the wetness fades away. I like this phase best; the florals and basenotes are really rich. It creates a wonderful halo that is perfect for a cold night. I can't comment on sillage because i can never guess that, but this seems average- not too strong, not too weak.
Despite the name I wouldn't call this a stinker. Like other reviewers, I wouldn't call this a leather either; to me it is more of a floral oriental. For it's price range it is certainly one of the better fragrances.