This classy green floral chypre is one of the best things to come out of the 60s. Fresh and bitter but with a floral heart and musky, woody base, this shares a lot with its classmate Estee and the other Estee Lauder fragrances of that time, but it is so finely made and elegant that it leaves those others far behind. This was for the classy ladies who shopped at I. Magnin and drove 450SLs to lunch at the club. A throwback scent today, but still totally wearable, instantly recognizable as one of the great scents of our time, even if you cannot quite place it. This was touted as the "First Great Perfume Born In America" (I think that Evyan and Elizabeth Arden would have had something to say about that....). Perfumer Josephine Catapano also gave us Fidji, another great classy floral chypre scent. Designer Norman Norell, known for his elegant suits and sparkly evening dresses, never turned his talents to menswear, but I often wonder what would have been the result if he had ever created a men's scent to go with this one. We'll never know!
Barbara Herman's description of this as a "radiant green floral, sweet and soapy woods, with an amber dry down" seems way off base to me.
This is a rich, deep, dark chypre - hearkening back to the 1940s. It's as good a chypre as the best of that genre can be - radiant, yes, but buttery warm and redolent of burnt sugar, amber and musk.
Top notes: Hyacinth, Galbanum, Bergamot, Narcissus, Lemon
Heart notes: Carnation, Jasmine, Rose, Orris, Orchid
Base notes: Sandalwood, Musk, Cedarwood, Moss, Amber
Certainly unisex for today's perfume aficionado and worth seeking out.
What a find!!!!
It was a blind purchase for my wife and actually I wasn't expecting too much but we were pleasantly surprized by an outstanding perfume that lasts all day long.
It is very complex to say the least, opens with a citrusy lavander to a very spicy floral heart to finish in a sweet mossy drydown. A textbook chypre if it wasn't for the lack of the animalic basenote.
Can be worn by confident men with aplomb.
A winner in my book
Just got this. It's remarkably similar to Estee Lauder's White Linen.
A classic. The new version stands up. This was from a cycle of heavy floral-cyphres from the late 60's...Estee Super, Ciara, etc. Perhaps the last gasp of old school, mink and diamonds, old money, country club, Mrs. Robinson style concoctions. Then, they would've bathed in it. To use it unironically today would require very deft application. But then again, it is a classic. Norell defines the word "luscious".