Calandre (1969)
by Paco Rabanne

I have to say that the backup singer in my college band wore this one...loved it then on a woman...and love the smell of Calandre now.

This is what I wish I would bump into while out shopping or walking around more than what I call NJ Gucci Envy.

I've been wearing Calandre almost non-stop since it was released in the '60s. Never smelled anything like it, never smelled anyone else wearing it. Even after collecting a large and wide-ranging perfume wardrobe it is still my signature scent and will always be my favorite.

This is an inexpensive, but in no way cheap, fragrance. After an initial, almost startling, burst of aldehydes and bergamot, the roses take the stage. Then the oakmoss and the lilies chime in. ( Yes, oakmoss in the upper notes!) Just when you think that this is just another floral-chypre, a strange & almost unpleasant metal note appears. The metal quickly morphs into shimmery lily rose with sandalwood and oakmoss humming softly in the background. I find that those who wear Calandre always discover the notes that THEY like the best in this symphony. Well done, and at a reasonable price!

A unique fragrance. I know someone who used to wear this all the time, and I couldn't stop getting close to her to smell the mysterious and evocative fragrance. No other women's fragrance can capture the classiness and strange melange of the metallic, floral and fresh as this scent does. It instantly evokes a feeling of well-being and nostalgia to me. Wear this to the opera, a picnic, or a romantic rendezvous, it is appropriate for every occasion. Love it!

Dab on Calandre and you get a quick aldehydic, bittersweet, green floral kick in the pants, soon bolstered by a whiff of fleshy indoles. The aldehydes subside to some degree over the next few minutes, as Calandre settles down into an indolic green jasmine and white flowers accord. At this stage I find Calandre rather ordinary in and old-fashioned “perfumey” manner.

Happily Calandre’s floral blend is eventually joined by a honeyed, evocatively hay-like note that I read as green narcissus. Beneath this emerges an intriguing smoky/salty caramel component that quickly drags the composition out of the conventional white floral territory. In the course of hours Calandre pares itself down to the faintly smoky green narcissus over a soft and somewhat sweet musky base. Throughout its evolution Calandre projects well and offers plenty of sillage, with better than average lasting power. I like the surprising destination that it reaches after its nondescript start and consider it a useful scent for everyday wear – and unisex to boot!

It is indeed a timeless scent..at least wearing it you know you wont smell like anybody else out there..a refreshing step from all those oversweet new scents..nonentheless, you have to be in the right mood to wear that classy scent..it is very green and gets quite dry after a bit..still it is one of those scents one can recognize anywhere!!
one of my favorites!