Purchased at the shop on Rue des Archives, on my first ever trip to Europe, Odalisque simply *is* Paris for me. A perfect floral, not dominated by white flowers, but rosy and a little powdery. Perfectly soigné and chic. Yes, Paris itself. What a great scent memory I've curated!
Odalisque’s top notes are all sunny, bright green florals, which soon meld with a very attractive sweet-spicy accord. This central arrangement engages the nose with exceptional depth and a complex interplay between its floral and spicy components.
Odalisque’s basic architecture benefits from some discreet animalic musks in its foundation, along with a subtly earthy chypre accord that hovers just at the edge of olfactory perception. As it develops, Odalisque also reveals an intriguing salty, savory aspect. It’s not the iodine and ozone marine accord familiar from so many modern male fragrances, but a meaty, almost foody smell. Smoky and leathery notes surface from time to time, but their appearances are fleeting, as if they mean to tease the nose. They reveal themselves more fully during the drydown, which features a very plush, yet quiet vanilla over a bed of moss and woods.
Odalisque is a reserved and understated composition. It wears close to the skin on me, and though it persists for some few hours, it never speaks above a gentle murmur. This reserve makes Odalisque not only suitable for daily wear in any number of social situations, but effectively unisex as well. Not bold perhaps, but very attractive.
This perfume is an example of why no one should buy a perfume un sniffed. I have a small vial I purchased as a decant and couldn't wait to smell this highly regarded perfume. Surprise, it smells like my cat's litter box.
The musk, orris and oak moss hit my nose immediately with a warm, dry effect, and if it stayed at this level, even laterally, I would like it. It does however, on me, quickly dissipate to an unremarkable, mossy, indistinct floral - mediocre. Pleasant, but mediocre. Hardly the masterpiece Luca Turin says it is. A "fresh chypre," yes, I grant you, but an uninteresting one.
I was sure it's catalogued as a leather perfume. It's all leather on me.