This perfume is an example of why no one should buy a perfume un sniffed. I have a small vial I purchased as a decant and couldn't wait to smell this highly regarded perfume. Surprise, it smells like my cat's litter box.
The musk, orris and oak moss hit my nose immediately with a warm, dry effect, and if it stayed at this level, even laterally, I would like it. It does however, on me, quickly dissipate to an unremarkable, mossy, indistinct floral - mediocre. Pleasant, but mediocre. Hardly the masterpiece Luca Turin says it is. A "fresh chypre," yes, I grant you, but an uninteresting one.
I was sure it's catalogued as a leather perfume. It's all leather on me.
i own parfume from 2009, and ti smells heavenly, femminine, and feels very natural, the juice is thick, oily. jasmin, moss all is natural
i cant understand this parfume took so many negative reviews, but i fell in love with it from the very first sniff, it smells relaxed, rounded, creamy, and above all femminine. but strong.and very unique!!
its not like modern watered down white flowers parfume, although strong its colour is white!citrus from the opening gives a way after 20 minutes to the bouqet of flowers that stays all the way to drydown and turns into creamy texture , just a touch of moss gives it durability , i tried it on a hot summer day and loved it that it has body and smells so gently like a real odalisque, young and beautiful!! but noticable, as young beauty is!
There seem to be varying versions of the notes list for this one. Bois de Jasmin lists them as bergamot, mandarin, galbanum, jasmine, lily of the valley, tuberose, ylang, patchouli, oakmoss, amber & castoreum, whereas Luckyscent lists only lotv, jasmine & iris. l do not know which formulation my sample is from, but although it is a recent one, having tried it l am convinced that the former list is the one that applies here.
This opens on my skin as a very dark-green, mossy, retro-style chypre, reminding me of Jubilation 25, & Patou's 1000. There's something very dirty & animalic deep within this perfume, which must be the castoreum, as well as an interesting salty note. One hour in it sweetens a little, but it's vegetal rather than floral, & l'm getting a whiff of smouldering, damp wood. Three hours in, it's a little warmer & friendlier, & there are hints of rose & a carrotty iris. From there it slowly fades out, the sillage is fairly good & it lasts around 5 hours on me.
This is a very rich, deep & complex perfume, but as is usual with chypres l find it rather too challenging for me, being a floral-oriental-gourmand type of gal. lt's very high quality though, & if you can work out which formulation this is, l highly recommend it for chypre lovers.