Number One (1989)
by Parfums de Nicolaï

Mixed white florals are often either a fusion of the flowery elements (eg. Amouage Gold) or an imagined flower (eg. Patou’s Joy, Lauder’s Beyond Paradise.) Clearly the above perfumes tell you that either of these approaches can be successful. Number One’s trick, though, is to give a bouquet where the individual flowers keep their own identities. There’s a citrusy opening and a nuanced musky vanilla at the base, but 90% of Number One is flowers: jasmine, narcissus, tuberose and orange blossom. Each of them and all of them. The standard, antiseptic blending of white-to-white is expected, but what distinguishes Number One is the line connecting the unwashed. Narcissus to jasmine; a wet greenness. Jasmine to orange blossom; indoles. Orange blossom to tuberose, flesh. Pretty is fine, but Number One shows that pretty with a hint of malice is much more interesting.

I can smell the origins of both Odalisque and Le Temps d’une Fete in Number One, yet each of the three perfumes is distinct from the others. They aren’t just serial issues, flankers. Artistry involves the ongoing creative exploration of ideas, and though a family resemblance is an outcome, it is just a starting point for the different directions Patricia de Nicolai’s perfumes take. I have room for all three in my life. In fact, I’m waiting for more.

18th February, 2011.

Nicolaï’s Number One opens on a friendly and attractive, if not terribly distinguished, citrus and fresh white flower accord before blooming into a brisk and buoyant green jasmine. The accord strengthens and sweetens over time, as a plush, powdery vanilla moves in underneath the floral notes and an unusually understated tuberose nuzzles up against the jasmine. The drydown is a lovely, chaste, and very slightly business-like vanilla and clean musk accord that reads somewhere between “innocent young girl” and “accomplished professional woman,” and would wear just as well on either.

While typically Nicolaï in its reserved style, Number One is not a shy scent, and offers very conspicuous sillage for hours after application. A solid, well-made, scent that’s at once comfortable and highly versatile, even if it’s not exciting.

11th December, 2009.

This one was a dissappointment for me. It's a rather powdery floral with nothing to get excited about. It's not terrible, just rather "blah".

7th December, 2009.

This is the first fragrance from PdN that I don't like! A high- pitched white floral with middle notes that remind me of urine (possibly an attempt to lessen the overly sweet white florals). I thought that I would really like this and I discounted the review in The Guide because their dislike of white florals is evident. But, to my nose, they were kind in their review.

22nd February, 2009.

An elegant blend of white florals, beautifully crafted with a nice kick of jasmine and tuberose, smoothed out by the iris. This is not a shy fragrance, but neither is it overbearing. I don't hesitate to wear it to work, albeit, sprayed pretty lightly. The notes are: Egyptian jasmine, Indian tuberose, orange blossom absolute, cassis, rose, iris. Unlike the previous reviewer, I had no complaints about the longevity, a surprise given how quickly many fragrances fade on my skin.

24th August, 2008.

Very pretty, feminine white floral--tuberose is dominant and, although not officially among the notes, there's a whisper of gardenia. After wearing #1 a second day, I compared it to La Chasse aux Papillons. In my mind they were similar, but I was surprised. Smelling #1 first made the orange blossom within the La Chasse really stand out. When I compare Jo Malone Orange Blossom to La Chasse, the OB makes La Chasse's tuberose stand out. The three scents compose a sweet-smelling spectrum. #1 does not last long on the skin, but that's the only derogatory remark I can make.

3rd September, 2006.