Vanille-Tonka (1997)
by Parfums de Nicolaï

I own a bottle of this, not because of the vanilla in the name, but because I think it is a wonderful, comfortable incense fragrance.

It is also wonderfully blended, with each note having a purpose. The zesty lime opening merging into the lemon edge of the frankincense, while the softest of floral heart provides smoothness that vanilla and tonka bean will continue and carry forward. All parts playing off of each other, and into each other.

But overall, this smells of smooth frankincense over smooth vanilla/tonka bean. It is never too sharp (as I find some incense to be) and never too sweet. It has a smooth, yet dusty feel to it, like an ancient, yet comfortable church. It seems simple in purpose and design - a comfortable scent, and a very well done one.

6th December, 2011.

Vanille Tonka Experience Diary:

At Spray: What lovely limes! So luscious! So bright and fresh!

1 min. in: Well, that's done. No surprise, citrus seldom lasts but it was delightful

1min. in continued: Where is everybody? There's a party somewhere, but not here.

5 mins. in: Two parties! A top notes party (sweet) and a base notes party (dry) no blend.

15 mins in: Now we've got mingling! Par-tay! Great quality ingredients and balance!

30 mins. in: Beautiful silage: A golden song of Orange blossom and Vanilla.

1 hour in: What's that dusty bit on skin? Growing... growing... not to my taste...

2 hours in: It's the cinnamon! not loud but inescapable. tainting everything...

3 hours in: Everything fading. Sickish cinnamon going with the rest. fading.

4 hours in: Largely gone-- what a ride!

Conclusion: Beautiful structure, beautiful citrus top note, beautiful silage (possibly the best I've ever smelt) but the cinnamon (dusty, hot, throat-closing) doesn't sit well with me. Pervades the fragrance and makes it a (regretted) no go.

Recommendation Recommendation Try more PdN work pronto!

25th September, 2011.

The name hardly does it justice. In case you're wondering there is a lot more going on than just vanilla and tonka. Soft orange blossom and mildly herbal citrus blend seamlessly with the dreamy (not creamy) vanilla-tonka base with frankincense giving it a dry airy feel. The sillage is simply exquisite! Not too sweet either. Definitely a top contender from Parfums de Nicolai and one that I would wear in a heartbeat.

14th February, 2011.

This scent was given to me by the lovely, Rotto. I really like this scent. It's great if you understand the ingredients and enjoy thinking of yourself as the Queen of Sheba. Cosidered to be for women, I think it could work for men as well due to the frankincense. The frankincense has been tempered with ingredients, I think citrus, that link the spice to the sweetness of the vanilla. This vanilla has sweetness, but a resiny quality so it's a bit more buttery. On my skin, citrus gives fragrances depth, without staying directly citrusy. I think the cool weather today was also good for the experience. My sister who only wears sweet florals, actually told me I smelled nice and agreed, men should try this as well.

2nd October, 2010.

Parfums de Nicolai Vanille Tonka

Vanilla is one of those love/hate notes. There are many, me amongst them, that love the comforting feel of vanilla. There are others who feel it is a sickly sweet intruder on their scents and would wish for all perfumers to lock up their vanilla. Vanilla is certainly a popular note in perfumery. Most times I know what to expect when I wear a scent which has vanilla or vanille in the name. Therefore it is a pleasure when a perfumer can surprise me with a new take on vanilla. Patricia de Nicolai does just that with here 1997 release, Vanille Tonka. When you look at the name you think, Vanille and Tonka, this is like double vanilla. The reality is far different, as by bracketing the titular notes with citrus up front and incense in the rear Mme. de Nicolai creates something entirely unexpected. The top is a mix of tangerine and lime according to the note list but it really is mostly lime there is some aspect of something less tart than the lime but the edge of the lime is what carries you into the heart. The heart is vanilla but this is the vanilla of the bean less sugary sweet and more subtly rich. The pairing with tonka bean is great because the sharp lime works to bring out the spiciness inherent in tonka. Particularly the cinnamon character. So often when tonka bean is used I get teasing hints of the cinnamon and clove character that is inherent to tonka. By using the acidity of the lime at the top it seems to make my nose more receptive to the cinnamon and clove, and in turn it keeps what could be a sticky sweet mess of a vanillla heart under control and really miles away from being sweet at all. The base is a magnificent contrast as Mme. de Nicolai gives this a blast of frankincense. This accord feels like as dry of an incense accord as I've encountered and that arid quality realy turns this scent on its ear and turns it into a sweeter than normal incense scent, on me. Vanille Tonka has average longevity on me and modest sillage. Vanilla scents usually tend towards the gourmand side of the street but Patricia de Nicolai has somehow made a genre-bending version of vanilla that is far from gourmand but very close to being unforgettable.

19th September, 2009.

I tried this - while I like it very much, the limey kick,bit of spice, and incense move it ever so slightly to the masculine side for me. Hubby gets my sample and I think we both will be quite pleased with this scent on him.

20th July, 2009.