Floramye (1905)
by Piver

My review is for vintage juice, but I am not sure how old. I don't have any of the new stuff to compare to. I have read in the blog-sphere that the perfumer is Pierre Armigeant (1874-1955) who also created Azurea. I haven't tracked down Azurea yet, but I do have a few other vintage and new Piver's to get around to.

My experience is different from the other reviewer who evidently had new stock to review. The first initial blast is of aldehyde that reminds me of Aquanet. In other words, not pleasant unless you are the nostalgic sort. However another close sniff reveals something that is probably pettitgrain. I get a light hint of what might be civet, or might just be a bit of rancid oil, it is hard to tell. Actually the note reminds me a little bit of my vintage sample of Djedi, which is supposedly "green" and "civet" but neither perfume are at all green to my nose, not even herbal, although I don't have any problems detecting these notes in other perfumes.

The floral middle notes are mostly gone in this sample that I have, so I can only comment on the drydown which is similar to merry.water's review. It is indeed floral and a bit waxy and powdery. I detect a bit of citrus in the drydown too, but that may be from the aldehydes.

I can't say that I recommend the vintage perfume to wear, but it is interesting to sample. I am giving this scent a thumbs up rating, but it is a rather weak one based on my vintage sample.

21st October, 2010.

An ancient scent. Two words on its history. Prof. Darzens, successful with the synthesis of odorous substances before came up with a new class, the aldehydes, first C-12 MNA. L.T. Piver, as before with other of Darzens achievements was chosen to build a fragrance around it. This was Floramye, composed 1905. Way before Guerlains famous C-14 aldehyde Mitsouko and Chanels C10/C11/C12-mix No5.

What does it smell like? I think Your granny would have known it from her mother! It is definitely aldehydic: pungent flowerish (alas, I can't figure out the bouquet) , a bit spicey green, but not herbal, faint waxy, tad more oily than that. Powdery as expected from the iris/orris. The development is quite linear besides the first 20 minutes when it is more sharp. It finishes after about 4 to 6 hours in a soft, dry and very clean scented expression. In every stage it avoids to be sweet or heavy.

Even overdosed a lot it doesn't kill the nose. It remains gentle and - fun. I'm pretty sure that some precious ingredients of the original are substituted by modern aromachemicals - think of orris butter. Otherwise the price of 12Euro/15$ per 3.5oz would be a steal. That said the contemporary versions appeal is not complexity, refinement in modern terms or a scandalous assault to the least olfactory taboo. To the opposite it fascinates just by the lack of fishy sensations!

I'm really glad to have this Archaeopteryx of perfumery in my wardrobe.

2nd February, 2010.