A very dark, rich chypre.
Although Barbara Herman finds it a gentle, spicy oriental, I do not, obviously.
Its name translates to "Dance Card," and I can picture a masquerade ball. It is quite dear and dense and it is unusual to find something this strong designed for a woman to wear. It would have to be a Dietrich or a Garbo.
Top notes: Lemon, Lime, Mandarin, Chamomile
Heart notes: Cyclamen, Rose, Lily, Jasmine, Ylang Ylang
Base notes: Patchouli, Civet, Amber, Musk, Moss, Vanilla
Apply sparingly - a little goes a long way. Available occasionally on Ebay.
Citrus top notes? Really? Cyclamen, rose, jasmine, lily & ylang ylang? Ok, probably some of that left. If so it is one of those masterful blends of old where no one floral holds the others hostage. Civet & Musk, most definitely. I love patchouli, but once it is blended into a perfume, it becomes asnomic or at least no longer recognizable to me. I always think
carnal instead of carnet, and to me this is indeed very carnal. It has that vintage brown perfume base and the cologne has a big kick of aldehydic rush that I adore. It would be so interesting to smell it as it was. But I've smelled a like new nip of Shocking that was wonderful, but I actually prefer the brown goopy version. It could be the same with this.
I found this information off the web,"It was created by Maurice Shaller in 1937". Also off the web...(perfume intelligence) it is a "parfum with citrus top notes; heart notes of cyclamen, rose, jasmine, lily and ylang-ylang; base notes of amber, patchouli, civet and musk".
I have a very small sample of undetermined age. The top notes are gone. One can almost sense what they could have been to "balance" the remaining composition. This has a beautiful smooth vintage "luxury" feeling that says classic perfume. I would have guessed this was intended to be a powdery leather with a spike of naughtiness in it. I think I still detect the lily and ylang ylang and a cloak of musk. I don't know for sure what the note is...there's something here that triggers very deep memories of what perfumes may have smelled like in the 50's (ones off my grandmother's dresser). It is like a beautiful silk veil on the perfume...if this is musk....wow...the effect though faded in incredible.