Detchéma (1953)
by Révillon

A lady I knew who wore Detchéma extremely well once told me this perfume was meant to be worn with furs. As a matter of fact, up until well into the 80's, French adverts showed very glamourous women in furs holding a bottle of Detchéma. The reason is very obvious: Révillon was first and foremost a fur company! With or without furs, I really love Detchéma. The aldehydes give it a slight plastic-like overtone at first but once the dry-down process begins, the rich floral and woody notes take over. Detchéma is classy, feminine and very dressy. It is a warm and somewhat heady fragrance. I certainly would not recommend it for hot summer days or mere casual occasions. The olfactive pyramid I found in the Internet is very complete:

Top notes: Lime blossom, neroli, bergamot, and peach
Heart notes : Rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, hyacinth, lily of the valley and carnation
Base notes: Orris, sandalwood, tonka, musk and vetiver.

However, it has very little to do with the one I found in my 1981-1982 7e Dictionnaire des parfums et des lignes pour hommes: Jasmine from Grasse, daffodil, rose from the Orient, lilly, sycamore, angelica, iris from Florence. There is one thing for sure: Jasmine is very present in Detchéma but in a very good way. I usually don't care much for jasmine but when it is used wisely, it can be wonderful.

21st November, 2011.

A Sixties throwback powdery aldehyde scent that, though beautiful, hides in the shadow of the great No. 5 by Chanel. Yes this is jasmine resting on a woody base -- but really -- why opt for this when the sublime rose-jasmine Chanel counterpart beckons.

1st September, 2011.

Rosemary Woodehouse's fragrance of choice, when she's not wearing eau de Tannis root.

29th April, 2010.

Aldehydic notes open this dusty/powdery jasmine centered floral. The era of this creation is undoubtedly recognizable! My nose senses a touch of violet and rose which accompany the jasmine as the drydown evenly progresses into a woodsy, sweet base. Testing this eau de parfum is like experiencing time-travel. If June & Ward or Rob & Laura were dining out at a 'supper club', I would expect the ladies to wear a strand of pearls, crimson lipstick & this fragrance! Traditionally feminine, sweet, and definitely retro ala 1950's/60's!

17th June, 2007.