Fracas (1948)
by Robert Piguet

I have this perfume in my wardrobe for more than 10 years and never manage to finish the bottle, I understand it's a classic but it's to strong and claustrophobic for me, I try to like it, but my favorite tuberoses are Carnal Flower and PCTuberose Gardenia, this two are masterpieces.

7th November, 2011.

I'm not certain how I managed to not try this previously, but the moment I saw the EDP tester in the shop, I reached for it, gave a tiny sniff – delicious! – and gave it a go.

It started off so promisingly: bright, citrusy-leafy with a sort of edible warmth behind it it, and I could not stop sniffing my wrist. It was perhaps after about half an hour that it struck me as a bit flat and synthetic, but I thought (and hoped) that I just needed to take a break from inhaling it, or it might be going through a rough moment in its development.
But... no. After abut three quarters of an hour, it settled into a single, disappointing, cheaply-scented baby talc note, which did however, persist fairly well. Not awful, just nothing even remotely special.

This happened twice. Perhaps I can get it to work out on my scarves, or something, even if my skin doesn't do anything good with it; I really wanted this to be wonderful.

To be entirely fair, this has happened with many fragrances I've tried: If there's a powdery note in there, be it ever so slight, my skin drags it to the surface, brutally kicking all other notes aside.

3rd November, 2011.

I tried several times this fragrance in perfume shop (of course, always with a few others) and concluded that it was not for me because "I do not like tuberose." Well, recently I received a sample of it and when I tried it properly, I realized that I was so wrong. It is not tuberose, that bothers me in some perfume, but it is always a combination of ingredients. The composition of Fracas is brought to perfection, giving a seductive, flirtatious, and above all classy perfume.
In the opening I can sense jasmine, with slight fruity accords. After some time, they are joined by tuberose, which gives that bubble-gum touch to the perfume. In dry down this bubble-gummy scent becomes slightly powdery, probably from iris. If you don`t like this perfume at first glance, I recommend to give it another chance.

5th October, 2011.

If tuberose is not your cup of tea, Fracas will most definitely kill you! But if, like myself, you love tuberose so much you could eat it, well, enjoy! I don't know whether or not this wonderful fragrance has been retouched in the past years (hopefully not), but I do remember the Fracas that was around in the 70's and 80's. Wow! A true explosion of joy! A friend of mine who hated Fracas with a passion told me it reminded her of these little tubes of wax filled with artificial fruity juices we used to buy when we were kids in the 60's. Of course, tuberose is not for everyone. As a matter of fact, I have shamelessly worn many women fragrances over the years but I have never dared trying Fracas. It screams femininity! Many perfumers will agree that Fracas is the best tuberose soliflore ever made. A true classic.

21st September, 2011.

I have to say I am an oriental/gourmand kind of girl and was hesitant about Fracas.

No more! Most florals to me seem watered down, candy childish or hesitant in their composition. Not Fracas. This is a woman with confidence. Not syrupy or old-lady artificial. Just a lovely, unashamed tuberose with citrus for sparkle and a woody warmth.

Now, this is the way to do floral!

12nd September, 2011.

FRACAS is, to me, the queen of the diva-worthy perfumes. Unapologetic and insistent, even haughty, but with every right in the world, for she is a beauty indeed. This lush, seductive tuberose composition has extraordinary longevity and diva-worthy sillage. Nothing really compares to FRACAS. Well, except maybe MAHORA, the last great Guerlain perfume, IMNSHO, not coincidentally launched in Y2K, and now out of production, in perfect conformity with numerous other managerial blunders that have characterized and indeed caused the once-illustrious house's tragic Fall from glory. But I digress...

I find FRACAS simply exquisite and peerless among perfumes still in production—at least the ones familiar to me. This is a bona fide classic which retains and will retain its integrity (I have been assured of this by the surprisingly accessible management chez Robert Piguet).

So why, exactly, is this composition so good? My best guess is that FRACAS was created by a perfumer given the freedom to work unfettered by marketing data. It's not just the use of high-quality and exquisite materials, but the way in which they have been put together. It's easy to lose sight of this once important aspect of perfumery in a world in which niche launches proliferate like rabbits, many with top-notch notes, but no real inspiration behind them. I imagine the brainstorming that goes on at some of these houses, leading to composition by committee: “Let's make a fig perfume, and an oud, and we need a coffee, too.” The list goes on and on....

The greatness of FRACAS inheres in its coherence and complex synthetic unity, which most contemporary launches lack, having been hacked together rather haphazardly under pressure to put out as many new perfumes as quickly as possible, instead of taking the time needed to incubate and nurture a genuine work of art.

In the end, to wear FRACAS successfully, you must tap into your inner diva. The wearer must conquer the perfume through her own self-confidence and self-presentation, thus completing the work through contributing directly to its ability to cast a tantalizing spell.

20th August, 2011.