You can sense the sheer quality of materials and perfumer artistry at play here. At first there is a huge whoooosh of snowy aldehydes, which like a snowstorm takes quite a while to clear and settle. I have to say that this was my least favorite part and is quite possibly a deal breaker for me. It reminded me so intensely of Chanel No. 5 EDT and it quite turned my stomach.
But then, once the snowstorm of aldehydes banks down, for the rest of the day you get gentle but persistent poofs of bitter orange peel (orangettes, as they are called in French) buttressed by wisps of amber and powder. The drydown is glorious. Pretty, formal, mysterious, sweet without being candied, powdery and floral. It is very feminine - I can't see a man pulling this off convincingly - but hey, I would love to see what this is like on a man, the contrast between the scent's inherent prettiness and the rough, stubbly skin of a musky male might be olfactory heaven, who knows...
Longevity and sillage are immense, impressive even. Enough to surround you with a haze of scent all day and night, at levels that make you seem simply attractive and not intrusively or loudly scented.
For me, this scent reads as formal. It is the type of fragrance I see a woman wearing to the theatre, not to a book club evening, let's say. I am not sure it is suited to an office environment - the immense sillage might make it less quiet than very formal office environments require. I really like this one, but I am wondering whether or not it has a place in my real life. I don't go to the theatre, and although my office is pretty relaxed about scent, this one has a formality and baroque feeling to it that I don't know I can live up to.
And those opening aldehydes, hmmmmmm.....that gives me pause for thought too. But in general, I really like/admire Baghari. I suggest it as a wonderful and more interesting alternative to young career women who might otherwise be wearing one of the younger Chanels, like Coco Mademoiselle or Chance. Baghari is far more interesting than either of those, and represents a very large step up in terms of complexity.
Yup, aldehydes fill my nose but only for a brief second. Then the neroli-violet dyad takes over, a beautiful flower given freshness by the neroli and aldehydes in quite a unique fashion, especially when a gorgeous jasmine is added in the delightful drydown. I then get flowery-elegant phase with orange blossom, with the base adding a well-designed amber that is not a very rich amber, more of an airy and elegant amber that towards the end displays a distinctly powdery note. Overall a flowery-oriental, but on my skin rich but not heavy, and never cloying or conspicuously sweet. Not a silage star like Visa or the Fracas dyad, it still sports good silage and projection with a good longevity of six hours. Great for spring days. I only cover the reformulated version as I unfortunately never tried the vintage formulation. A grand dame that has juvenile zest today.
I previously thought it unlikely that I could love an aldehyde feast more than La Myrrhe, but man, was this a revelation! The opening aldehyde combo packs an irresistible zing! with candied orange, the realistic chypre mid-life and such a graceful musky drydown (much much later)...mon dieu! this is really beautiful stuff. As with Sarrasins, my wife finds this too 'feminine' for me to pull off but I'm inclined to disagree. Nothing that smells this good can NOT work for whomever, right?
(I find this quite similar to Tauer's Orange Star, but is more complex, less powdery, just more elegant...) 9/10
10th March, 2013 (last edited: 17th May, 2015)
Were I to attend a sci fi convention this is the perfume I’d wear. It’s cold, pale green milk from the Planet Zearxh.
It holds such opposite notes together in such exquisite balance, it’s a perfumery gyroscope. It never seems familiar, surprising each time I spray it on. The aldehydes go ssss, before the gas takes effect. Lemon cool and sharp, violet leaf bitter and greasy, abstract ‘fresh’ greens, geraniol’s liveliness, and clouds and clouds of powder. There’s sweetness lurking here too, but of an almost metallic variety. It’s one of those fragrances where the discussion of notes inevitably seems to throw off balance the actual experience of wearing the thing. It’s about as linear as they come, but I wouldn’t want it any other way – there’s enough complexity here, it seems churlish to demand evolution. For a ‘cold’ fragrance, it positively sings in the wintertime – go figure.
Some days I wake up and think, this is going to be a Baghari day – and then I just know it would be foolish to consider anything else.
A superb oriental - in the same category as OPIUM and JAIPUR HOMME, my two other absolute favorite orientals.
The scent is sensual, powdery, warm and captivating - cinnamon and vanilla float over amber and musk - although cinnamon is not a listed ingredient, the "effect" is there.
Here are the ingredients:
Bergamot, Damascus Rose, Centifolia Rose, Jasmine, Neroli
Aldehydes, Iris, Violet
Vetiver, Amber, Musk, Vanilla
Treat yourself - you'll be happy you did.