Perfume Directory

Rochas Femme (original) (1944)
by Rochas

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Rochas Femme (original) information

Year of Launch1944
GenderFeminine
AvailabilityDiscontinued
Average Rating
(based on 95 votes)

People and companies

HouseRochas
PerfumerEdmond Roudnitska
PackagingMarcel Rochas
Parent CompanyInter Parfums
Parent Company at launchRoussel-Uclaf

About Rochas Femme (original)

Rochas Femme (original) is a feminine perfume by Rochas. The scent was launched in 1944 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Edmond Roudnitska. The bottle was designed by Marcel Rochas

Rochas Femme (original) fragrance notes

  1. Top Notes
  2. Heart Notes
  3. Base notes

Reviews of Rochas Femme (original)

A friend sent me a sample of the vintage PDT (1980s?) and all I can say is - wow. Sometimes I find vintage perfume to be a bit over-hyped, to be honest. I prefer not to live with the idea that the best in perfumery is behind us (or available at an extortionate price on eBay), and often try to get along with modern versions of the scent instead. But this is one of those instances when you put on a vintage and immediately begin to mourn its brutal reformulation. I tried the new version once in a shop and found it a bitter, woody fruit chypre, overloaded with cumin and obviously trying to come across as the less celebral sister of Mitsouko.

The vintage juice, on the other hand, is a deep, brilliant orange in color, almost announcing its radioactive power. It is superb. A rich, luridly-hued pile of peaches and peach skin, dusted in warming spice and set against a backdrop of lacquered woods and damp moss. There is a fair amount of cumin or civet in this, enough to set my hair ends at vibrate alert anyway, and certainly enough to imbue the perfume with a curvaceous sensuality. Yes, there is a kinship to the great Mitsouko, as all fruity/woody chypres must have, but Femme is slightly looser and sexier - and dare I say, perhaps even a bit easier to wear. Edited to add: the heavy cumin/civet, fruit, and moss actually remind me a lot of the first half of Jubilation 25, when it still behaves as a bitter, fruity chypre rather than its creamy oriental second act. But Femme is chypre all the way through.
14th January, 2015
The first of the so called (and badly named) "dirty" scents for women.

This simply means scents that imitate and enhance the natural body aromas from madame's nethermost regions.

It is strong and heavy, combining the cinnamon, cumin and coriander in an unforgettable way, bringing a new scent category into being.

This is not to be worn for casual flirting. The woman wearing this means business and is hoping for serious love-making. Definitely not an office scent unless the woman is a heartless tease. The male equivalent of this would be to my nose Ernesto Sebastiano's name scent.

Top notes: Peach, Plum, Bergamot, Lemon, Rosewood, Apricot, Cinnamon
Heart notes: Ylang, Jasmine, Rose de Mai, Clove, Orris, Coriander, Immortelle
Base notes: Musk, Amber, Oakmoss, Benzoin, Patchouli, Leather, Sandalwood, Civet, Sandalwood, Cumin.

Turin called it a "woody floral" - ??? and gave it three stars. Barbara Herman called it a "fruity chypre."

It was Mae West's signature scent. Need one say more. One of the greats.
12th October, 2014
Just received a vintage bottle of this masterpiece. I cannot really detect the different notes in the remaining drops at the bottom of the bottle, but I perceive a smell of old good well balanced scents. The kind of scents they used to create to give women a sense of luxury and elegance. The kind of scents are so difficult to buy today. Even the cardboard box speaks of elegance and luxury, with its lace design. Why oh why is it so rare such a meticolous care in details today?
11th February, 2014
I splurged on a vintage bottle of edt. From the bottle it smells like the most heavenly balsamic fruity amber nectar. On spritizing, there's a tonne of cinnamon which rapidly morphs into an amalgam of aldehydes and sweaty crotch! The crotch (cumin?) remains, but is joined by what really does smell like plum. Not a deep, plum jam as I'd imagined, but a fresh, juicy plum, on a sandalwood platter. I'm surprised that the juiciness has survived, but also relieved. It's starting to smell like a fresher version on Feminite du Bois, now... Very interesting, and very glad I took a punt on this one! :-)
14th May, 2013
I'm uncertain just HOW vintage my little vintage bottle is ... no earlier than the 70's, for sure. I find this nice, but rather unexciting compared to other chypre loves. I don't get much green -- but lots of nice soft peach and peach skin, fruity in the classic rather than headache-inducing contemporary manner. A fairly gentle orange peel, intermittent soap. The fruit is long lasting & mostly pleasant, but sometimes blends with a sweet floral note in a way that reminds me of Tang drink crystals. (NOT overbearingly loudly or obviously, but that is the note.) Amber and musk dominate the underlayers for me, so it's quite smooth and round, rather subtle. It's warm and feminine, and distinctly calls to mind the generalized notion I had, during my 70s childhood, of 'what perfume smells like.' Perhaps that is why I find it just faintly generic -- or perhaps my body chemistry doesn't really do it justice. But I prefer something a bit more challenging in a chypre.
28th October, 2010
zenana Show all reviews
United States
When I was 18 or 19 in the mid 70s, the most exotic person I ever met wore this perfume, and everything in her little tropical apartment, from her satin sheets to her Persian rugs to her 40s vintage house dresses, smelled of it. She was Parisian, wore fire-red nails and long scarves, brewed espresso in a crusty old bialetti, and was completely independent in mind, body, and sensibility. She had a big hound dog called Plume that she took with her everywhere. I just bought a sample of the vintage Femme and it all comes back. A gorgeous, timeless, impossibly sexy fragrance that I'll wear now with a nod to my old friend -- if only I could ever be such a blithe spirit.
10th August, 2010

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