Tocade - is it just a fad? No.
Tocade is exciting! Not often you can say that about a perfume. It smells vibrant, young, cheeky, and a bit subversive too.
The excitement comes from the dynamic structure of this fabulous meringue like creation, at the heart of which lies a gentle bouquet of Maurice Roucel's trademark magnolia.
This is hidden by two layers of contrasts: a vapid sweetness set against a venomous bitter note, and a wider enveloping layer that contrasts a synthetic hairspray hiss with a chewy caramel.
What gives Tocade its vibrancy is the brilliantly poised dynamic between sweet & powdery and bitter & resinous notes; a niave yet wily combination of seductive warmth and cool obstinacy that amounts to something more than a passing craze.
**** (1994 formula)
19th March, 2016 (last edited: 20th March, 2016)
It's Xmas eve here in the Southern Hemisphere and the fragrance that is Tocade is so appropriate, so festive. The Alpha Male wore LIDGE today and I couldn't help but notice that we complemented each other, the basenotes intertwined quite beautifully. If you like Un Matin d'Orage by Annick Goutal this is a superior perfume at a fraction of the cost. If you wear Mauboussin for Women, as I do, this makes a nice change. If you like sensual perfume and real Turkish delight (not mass produced rubbish) this is a winner. This is not an emotionally constipated perfume, but it isn't Madame Claude either. For the woman who knows how to be a lady in the living room and a courtesan in the bedroom. Who better to have devised it than Maurice Roucel?
Rochas Tocade is one of those simply irresistible fruity-oriental accords which you go crazy for despite their structure is not properly articulated or basically "hyper nuanced". This fragrance is simply gentle, "cottony" (like a paradoxically "un-sweet" or better minimally sugary cotton candy), aromatic (vaguely gasseous) and gracious. In its suave (never too sweet, perfectly calibrated) mildness you can get apparently almonds, fruits (it seems pears), musks, smooth vanilla and powdery amber. Tocade is finally an intensely smooth (kind of ostensibly pear-like) accord of spicy ambrette-benzoin with suave rosey facets (I detect a touch of synthetic "musky iris"'s feel a la Dior Homme Intense as well) and a general muskiness as dominant ambience. The aroma is almost culinary, softly sugary-cinnamonic-almondy and vaguely confetto-like. A central patchouli is perfetly enclosed in the middle of a vanillic muskiness providing a refined sense of indolent and narcotic debauchery a la Kiori by Kiori. Tocade's opening is anyway far less linear and "pacificated" since the initial angular (geranium) and herbal approach is slightly bitter-crisp and barely gasseous-dissonant with hints of something smelling like a sort of salty-bitter/herbal-liquorous intensity (slightly piquant and green-vegetal).
May be the hidden saltiness is provided by a hint of vetiver cutting the benzoinic-rosey muskiness. Finally the fragrance smells dusty-spicy, musky-cedary, soapy-waxy/poudre and ethereal but constantly sensual and almost organic. Another madame of classicism which doesn't fail to put you on the stage in any occasion. Iconic fragrance-iconic bottle.
18th August, 2015 (last edited: 19th August, 2015)
If someone had told me I would LOVE a perfume with vanilla and roses, I would have laughed. But on me this is pure oriental and a dry one at that. I honestly don't smell the vanilla in the dry down at all. On me the dry down is a dry spicy scent, not sweet at all. I LOVE this perfume and I don't think you can easily get this much quality for this little money in many scents.
Genre: Floral Oriental
The intense candied citrus and floral notes that open Tocade are accompanied by some disturbing ethanol fumes, but these subside quickly to reveal a rich vanilla custard accord with sharp rosy accents. Tocade’s vanilla could easily have become cloying, but it is rescued by a vaguely medicinal bitter edge on its floral components. The overall effect winds up more soapy than foody, which is fine by me. If pressed, I’d guess that the bitterness stems from some galbanum in the mix, and that this, in concert with the rose and a clear, dry cedar in the base, creates the soapy accord that offsets all the vanilla.
Tocade remains relatively linear for some time once the vanilla-soap accord settles into place, though a sweet, fruity amber eventually gains some prominence in the base. The drydown is smooth cedar and vanilla, with just a hint of the tangy amber deep in the background. I think Tocade is a very pleasant scent – safe, easy to wear, and perky without ever being silly or trite.