Melograno (Pomegranate) is by far and away the bestselling fragrance in the Santa Maria Novella line-up, a fact that surprises me every time I smell it. It’s not so much that it’s an odd fragrance (although it is) but that it’s extremely hard to pin down.
If you read the reviews for Melograno, you will see that it seems to be a different fragrance from one wearer to the next – to some, it is a green chypre along the lines of Givenchy III, to others it is the edgier twin of the grandest aldehydic monster ever created, Chanel No. 22, and to yet others, it is nothing more than detergent soap made into a fragrance. The one thing that everybody agrees upon is that it doesn’t smell like pomegranates.
Perhaps Melograno is successful because it is so dependent on the individual skin chemistry and scent memories of each wearer, and is therefore the olfactory equivalent of a mood ring. Mood rings were popular for a reason – we all like to feel that the end result is reflective of our individual personalities and chemistry. In that case, Melograno is the ultimate bespoke fragrance – it smells like a mixture of scent, your skin, and a complex bundle of memories and mind associations that are purely your own.
For what it’s worth, to me it smells like a mixture of aldehydes, green flowers, luxury soap, and church incense, with a faint but stirring note of urinal puck running through the base. Why this odd mish mash of elements should work is beyond me, but without doubt, the end result is resolutely appealing. What it will smell on you, and whether you’ll like it, is anyone’s guess.
My favorite of the SMN after shaves. IMHO what makes the SMN head and shoulders above the rest is the healing ingredients. LOVE the smell !
03rd September, 2015 (last edited: 28th October, 2015)
Genre: Fruity Floral
Melograno opens up with the most bizarre mix of candied fruit, sweet florals and aldehydes you could imagine. Or maybe, then again, you can't. I prefer distinctive fragrances, but these top notes leave me absolutely baffled.
Left to develop, it's still freakish: a clashing mess of sweet fruit and harsh aldehydes that make no apparent sense together. It also smells aggressively synthetic, whether its ingredients are or not.
I don't get it, and I sure don't want to wear it!
Another extremely soapy SMN's old recipe (another non-fragrance perfume) which hardly exudes a typical sharp pomegranate aroma, leaning on the contrary towards something yet fruity but more properly bamy/resinous, cedary/powdery, ambery/animalic, orangy and exotic (i feel the typical ylang-ylang vibe combined with a white tobacco/balsams combo). The outcome is really barber-shop, chypre/aldehydic, sharply ambery, secretly green and classic (with hints of bergamot and patchouli- may be also lavender) with a notable tobacco/powder/vetiver presence. I detect some Hammam Bouquet's soapy nuance in the air probably because of the vanilla combined with rosey soap and resins. The fruity floral background is influenced for sure by the note of pomegranate which is anyway such of cedary/powdery and almost berrish/orangy in its feel. I note a faint structure and finally a basically linear inoffensive clean (almost laundry type) combination. Classic and restrained but not enough original and satisfactory to me.
The top note is fruity with a hint of pomegranate and a floral note. Layer, a gentle sweetish wood note is added, and the drydown has a gentle powdery note, milder and more elegant than a typical English barbershop impression. It can project well, lasts about three hours on me and evokes connotations with leisure time and romance. An elegant summer evening dinner scent, conservative but with a unique combination of several disparate notes that combine to a successful total. Try before you buy.
I thought it would be a stroke of genius when in the aftermath of 'Casino Royale' I had friends of mine sneek a bottle of Melograno back from Florence. I was very exited to gift my then girlfriend with Vesper Lynd's scent of choice as she's a sophisticated and sexy woman in her thirties. Bingo I thought.
However, nothing the likes can be said about Melograno. I don't understand it. It's powdery and offensive to my perhaps unsophisticated nose. It dries down to a somewhat pleasant smell after 8-12 hours, but nothing I'd go through the initial experience for. I was dying to love this scent. So was my sweet-heart. Alas, we can't. Now we remember the scent for my romantic gesture for her birthday and not the grim disappointment of what's in the bottle. I'm so sad this couldn't be a high-spirited review. Sorry.
This scent might be right for you. Probably not if you're younger that 50. .. And it's about as unisex as Liberace and Dame Edna's lovechild. Caveat Emptor.