Eliotropio
by Santa Maria Novella

This was a blind buy because (a) it's discontinued , (b) I got a great deal on eBay, (c) I like Heliotrope; and, (d) I like SMN. I guess I was sort of expecting something along the lines of Etro Heliotrope, which is very sweet and gourmand. SMN's version, like most of its single-note fragrances, is much more muted and realistic. CF SMN's Violette, Rose, and Vetiver.

Heliotrope smells like musky almond vanilla, and this version is presented exactly that way. The fragrance is just a touch sweet, but there is also a very realistic floral element to it that balances the sweetness and is just a touch green and almost - almost - bitter. Still, heliotrope retains its gourmand quality, and this would be a wonderful element in layering by creating a fuzzy, edible base. The composition on the whole is musky and fuzzy as heliotrope fragrances tend to be. CF Apres L'ondee.

If you thought Etro's Heliotrope was light, be warned that it's a sillage monster compared to this. SMN's version is essentially a skin scent, a very pretty one, but there is no amount of application that will result in sillage. Perhaps it's because the few ingredients are natural but the longevity is fairly short, about 4-5. Of course your skin may still smell nice after this time, but you can't really detect any heliotrope. All in all I'm glad with my blind buy, though I'm not sure this will play a big role in my rotation except for those days that call for little or not fragrance. Again, the best place for this may be in layering, which I rarely do but may just experiment with now that I have a good base to work with.

15th January, 2009.