Nombre Noir (1981)
by Shiseido

If you expect Nombre Noir to be a fragrance from another world, considering the amazing reviews available elsewhere, you may get disappointed after paying considerably for a small mini of the edp or even a sample of the parfum. My advice is to approach Nombre Noir considering that it`s a fragrance aligned with the tastes of that era - the beginning of eighties, with big, dramatic aromas and the late aldeihidic florals of the 70`s. Nombre Noir seems to have something of both worlds. What amazes me in Nombre Noire is how classical it`s and how true to the lutens expression the fragrance remains. It`s a complex fragrance, with several layers, starting with a sparkling-candle aldehidic aroma, going to the rose phase and ending in a woody-chypre base. The aldehidic floral aroma makes it remember classical fragrances, like the original Madame Rochas. But Lutens twist the structure by doing the saturation of notes that would be his signature to the other fragrances he would create. There is an intense amount of rose and osmanthus, which gives the fragrance a dark, winey and dramatic aroma.
The edp and parfum have difference on this interpretation; the edp seems more classical, less intense on the dark rose aspects, while the parfum seems more saturated, with a galbanum-like beginning and the base more in evidence to hold the wine intense rose accord.
Nombre noir will probably live up the expectations if you are a fragrance coinosseur or like fragrances in this vein. It`s, with Feminite du Bois, a good way of understand the characters of lutens' style that would be explored in his fragrances. If it`s a legend, well, i`m not capable of judge it, but if it`s a solid and elegant classic fragrance that i`m happy to had a chance of try it and that i would wear if it were still produced today.

23rd May, 2011.

The notes according to Yesterday's Perfume:
TOP NOTES: Aldehydes, Coriander, Bergamot, Marjoram, Rosewood
HEART NOTES: Rose, Geranium, Orris, Jasmine, Ylang-ylang, Carnation, Lily of the Valley, Osmanthus
BASE NOTES: Sandalwood, Vetiver, Honey, Amber, Musk, Benzoin, Tonka
This is exactly what I consider to be "perfume" as opposed to "smells like something" or a "scent". It is beautiful. Smooth and mysterious. I think I get the coriander and the rosewood. I think it is based on a deep dark bed of roses...and all those basenotes keep rolling by like waves. If this were a colour it would be a dark inky blue. I don't know why. (I now read another blogwriter saying "purple" which is close to my impression.) It is wholly sensual yet somehow austere. Sigh. I wish I could roll around in this.

7th September, 2010.

it's a legend! i dont have the chance to meet it, but i can see how amazing and impressed it was through all the actticles on this scent!

22nd February, 2010.

Nombre noir: the nights of wine and roses, and precious wood. Gothic and nocturnal, yet clear and sophisticated.
Sadly discontinued, I treasure my bottle of eau de parfum I managed to find last summer in France.
A gem of a fragrance!

27th September, 2008.