Feminitè du Bois (1992)
by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido (orig. by Shiseido)

I've been told this could be the reference scent for Iso E Super but even with a heavy spray, there were no strident notes to be found, cedar or otherwise. All I got was a well-rounded and silky smooth blend of dried fruits (esp. plum), spices (cloves), flowers (? unidentified) and just a hint of cedarwood. Though FEMINITE DU BOIS seems modest in its portrayal, there is no denying that this is another top quality creation from Christopher Sheldrake - I enjoy it very much even if it lacks that 'wow' factor.

The Shiseido EDP version: This smells like nothing I've smelt before. The wood note is very potent and distinct from the beginning, and does come across a little bitter to my nose. The fruit notes are actually very tame and play a much muted role. This is a much richer, "darker", and far less sweet, compared to the newer Serge Lutens version. A very classy scent.

What is the "bois" note? To me, it smells of cedar, pepper, and pickled apricots, and to a greater or lesser degree is present in all of the Lutens' Bois series. Here it is the dominant note, with a slightly dusty incense in the background softening the focus a touch.

It's well made and not exactly unpleasant, but there's something about the sourness of the fruit note that just makes this a no for me.

I’ve heard comparisons between this and Lutens’ Un Cèdre and I can understand where some Basenoters are coming from. Both have an emphasis on cedar but, while Un Cèdre incorporates tuberose and amber, Feminitè du Bois utilises plum and vanilla notes instead.

After a while, the plum accord surrenders its dominance to the cedar base notes with a hint of vanilla lurking in the background. It’s also at this point that I start losing interest in Feminitè du Bois, as it was the sultry and juicy plum note that held my attention in the first place.

Still it’s a smooth, sensual and subtle cedar scent that is worth investigating, although I felt its longevity could have been slightly better. I also think that it’s more unisex than Un Cèdre which, paradoxically, comes across as more feminine.

If you found Un Cèdre disappointing, give this a try.

[Original submission date: 13 April 2008]

I have just tried feminitè du bois in the new rectangular bottle. To me, it smells just like in the old bottle. it's a pity they changed it, but at least the juice is intact: pure beautiful cedar splinters with soft plum, sexy musk and delicate violet.

To me it is really woody rose, like in Poussière de Rose by Les Parfums de Rosine. Its longevity is questionable, it needs constant reapplying, and it is not a perfume thats evolves much with time. Plus I find the purple bottle dark and sinister (reminds one of the Shiseido boutique at the Palais Royal!), and I hide it in my cupboard.
And yet I never tire of it, its feelgood power being absolutely reliable. It's most friendly, different, perfect.