Reviews of Feminitè du Bois (1992)
by Shiseido

Notes: (from Bois de Jasmin) cedarwood, orange blossom, rose, violet, honey, plum, beeswax, clove, cardamom, cinnamon

I used to own Feminite du Bois EDP, the original release by Shiseido. It is actually a Serge Lutens/Christopher Sheldrake creation, and originally came in a gorgeous dusky purple bottle with a curvy smooth shape that reminds me of a Brancusi sculpture. I have read several conflicting reports that it has been discontinued, or has limited distribution in countries other than the US, or some such. I also read a Serge Lutens news story or interview in which SL explicitly stated FdB would be re-released through the SL export line (can't remember where I saw it, and now I can't find it). I hope this is the truth, and I hope they don't mess with the formula or strength!

I never knew about Lutens before I started exploring perfumes in depth here on BN and other sites. I bought FdB simply because I loved it, and nothing else I was testing at the time came close to the complexity, modernity and originality of FdB. I later found out that SL sketched out some other fragrances inspired by FdB, and these are currently in the non-export line. Of the ones I tried, the following come closest to FdB, especially in the drydown: Bois de Violette, Bois et Fruits, Bois et Musc. Bois Oriental and Un Bois Vanille are supposedly also based on the FdB structure, but to me, these did not seem as similar in tone. Another Sheldrake creation which has the FdB drydown is Christian Dior Dolce Vita.

Upon first application, FdB is immediately spicy, penetrating, sharp and woody. I can smell cinnamon and clove, cedar, and something that makes the wood seem sweet and creamy--could be the beeswax mentioned in the notes. I do smell something that seems a bit like the deeply resinous and vaguely honey-like beeswax I have smelled in pure beeswax candles. To my nose, the cedar is very well done, not like pencil shavings or hamster cage litter. I have read that FdB uses Iso E Super, so this could be the reason that the cedar note has the smooth quality it does. Also, in the past, I remember FdB going through a sweaty cumin stage between the top and middle notes, but I am not smelling that today.

As it dries, the violet and fruits come out. The violet is slightly floral, not overly sweet, and is definitely not the candied violet in Bois de Violette. The fruit seems dried, like prunes or raisins. I am sure listing "prune" in the notes is not very glamorous, but the scent of prune-plums is one of my all time favorites, and I always loved opening a can of prune-plums in syrup so I could get the first whiffs. So, plum it is, but definitely not like the plums you get from the produce section of the grocery store. The beeswax is also a bit more prominent now. It seems to be a wonderful alternative to using resins or vanilla to pull things together.

FdB develops fairly quickly, and the drydown stage is gorgeous--mild cedar and spice mixture, and the lingering sweetness of beeswax. I would say cinnamon is the dominant spice note, and it gives the drydown some bite. However, the cardamom and clove soften the edges a little bit, fade into the background, and seem to almost become part of the wood more than the spice mixture. I don't know why I never realized before that the beeswax was the resinous unifier in this fragrance. The FdB base is so different than the typical amber oriental base of labdanum, vanilla and benzoin (or other resins). Upon further reflection, if the amber base were broken into resinous, woody and balsamic parts, I think all of these roles are filled by the beeswax, cedar and cardamom. Perhaps this is what Luca Turin meant when he referred to this base as an alternative oriental.

One fragrance map I have seen places FdB in the fruity chypre family. I suppose if the definition of an oriental is something with an amber accord in the base, then this might not be the right category for FdB. However, it has the depth and complexity of an oriental, and in some ways also has the heavyness. I think it was ahead of its time, at least for US customers. And I can see why it might not do very well here--it is definitely not a superficial fragrance, and some may find it very challenging. Sillage and longevity are moderate, but since I love the creamy, woody, spicy drydown, I don't mind getting there quickly!

It is easy to see why Féminité du Bois gets such great press: Just smell it, and you know why it has so many admirers. It’s incredible… As a matter of fact, it’s perfect.

warm comforting woody some sweet plum and nutmeg what's not to love,still quiet easy to come by here in holland and the good thing is that it's so unknown that you at least do not smelll the same as everybody else(like a fruit basket)i hope shiseido keeps making it it's one of the most comforting scents i know

For me Feminite du bois is a very sensual and feminine perfume. It is a warm fragrance that protect and give confidence.
It is a calm and quiet perfume that shines quietly but for a long time.
It sticks in our mind.

A mellow scent that doesn't really strike me as feminine. Feminite du Bois has a strong woodsy note that's only slightly tamed by an undercurrent of dusky fruit and spices. Another poster mentioned plums, which fits. I also pick up a spicy musk when I sprayed it on. Maybe nutmeg?

Not a personal favorite, but at least longevity isn't that good...for those of us who aren't fans.

I'm with Sofresh on this one ~ FdB must be the biological mother of Lutens' entire "Bois series", they are virtually of the same genetics. For a dominantly woods fragrance, I was suprised how much I loved this one in the heat of summer! It's exquisite! I wish it were available for retail purchase here in the USA!

Although difficult to come by (ask at the Shiseido counter if you don't see it), FdB is a must-smell. I have a hard time distinguishing it from Lutens' Bois Oriental/Violette/Musk/Fruit, and at a fraction of the price, its not a bad thing. Perhaps a tad more floral, it retains its dark, purple aroma of plum & cedar. Beautiful bottle too.

I’ve heard comparisons between this and Lutens’ Un Cèdre and I can understand where some Basenoters are coming from. Both have an emphasis on cedar but, while Un Cèdre incorporates tuberose and amber, Feminitè du Bois utilises plum and vanilla notes instead.

After a while, the plum accord surrenders its dominance to the cedar basenotes with a hint of vanilla lurking in the background. It’s also at this point that I start losing interest in Feminitè du Bois, as it was the sultry and juicy plum note that held my attention in the first place.

Still it’s a smooth, sensual and subtle cedar scent that is worth investigating, although I felt its longevity could have been slightly better. I also think that it’s more unisex than Un Cèdre which, paradoxically, comes across as more feminine.

If you found Un Cèdre disappointing, give this a try.

Feminite du Bois starts out with spices and sweet white flowers, quickly joined by a very soft, powdery note that persists into the heart of the fragrance. The florals and spices blend seamlessly into a very pretty accord that's underpinned by the most subtle of wood notes.

Feminite du Bois holds in this sweet woody oriental mode for a long time, then drifts very slowly towards a powdery vanilla and wood drydown. During this process the woods become more and more prominent, eventually nudging the floral/spice accord out of the way and stepping into the foreground. The whole composition is wonderfully light and delicate, particularly when compared to the much heavier sweet orientals Sheldrake has composed under the Serge Lutens label. Too powdery for me to wear comfortably, but certainly a fine fragrance.

I've been looking for a fragrance to replace my, sadly discontinued, favourite, Guerlain "Aroma Allegoria - Exultant" and I've found it in "Feminite du Bois". Surely this is the perfect scent, spicy, woody, sweet exotic, yet not overpowering.It smells of cloves, incense and wax with a warm woody undertone. My new favourite. What a shame that it has been discontinued too!!!!

Just as lovely as everyone says: smooth, buttery soft, dark wood with musky and spicy hints and a touch of powdery sweetness. The violet lends it a cool air, like a forest after the rain, but the scent is mostly dry like leather or black tea or perhaps coffee beans. Enchanting.

Cedar, leather, beeswax and is it myrrh? Yes, this perfume smells like inside a church. It's mystical, elegant and sophisticated. Very original. Good news -it's not going off the market, but Zen is. I love Feminite du bois.

Soft and warm, the cedar, thankfully, is suggestive but not overwhelming. Settles down to a sweet melange of woodsy spice. Delightful!

the bottle is like a swaying sculpture silhouette of a slim willowlike dancer in a plum silk kimono. this fragrance was startling in its sophistication and indiviuality, then i became intoxicated. its woodsy cedar unfortunately made someone remark that it was more than the cedar of new pencils, more like a hampster cage! aaaggghhhh! i think its too elegant for typical american palette, save for a voyage to paris/morocco...

I bought a bottle of this very unusual fragrance in a parfumerie in Annecy, France. It comes in a chic, brown glass bottle with a mauve lid and the contents are fabulous. Ir reminds me of camping weekends in the woods - naughty, but nice! Very spicy (cinnamon seems to predominate) but also woody (cedar). A gorgeous, warm scent. It makes you want to keep sniffing your wrist!!

A Woody Oriental with plummy fruit notes, spices and of course loads of cedar wood- my most favorite wood. While it is on the dry side, it's not the driest fragrance I've ever encountered. The fruity/flowery notes give it a bit of moisture or roundness that blends the whole composition into a smooth olfactory experience. A gorgeous creation in a whole class of its own.

Good on Christopher Sheldrake for using cedar in a way that divests it of its more repellent qualities and instead emphasizes its finer aspects with a series of contrasting notes. I mean, cedar is a tough one to work with, and in many fragrances where it's combined with the likes of other equally temperamental, potentially repugnant notes - sandalwood, which can approximate chemical assault if abused, or incense with its ability in large doses to smother and choke - it's just way too much, way too overwhelming. That being said, the art of juxtaposition can a delicate one, one that can also backfire and badly (and does backfire, in my opinion, on some of the Serge Lutens signature frags) - but here, in Feminite du Bois, Sheldrake nails it solidly, 10.0 style. This is a wonder of a fragrance; the lyricism in which cedar melds with orange blossom, peach, honey, plum, beeswax, clove, cardamom and cinnamon is just about beyond description. The name of this scent says it all better than I possibly could - "the femininity of the wood." Now for the rant - BAD on Shiseido for taking this off the market. It's just about impossible to come by! If you love it, want to love it, want to try it even, prepare to embark on a scavenger hunt. Perfumebay has it sometimes so check there often!