Eau du Soir (1990)
by Sisley

This was a major discovery, during a recent trip to Paris. Apart from Eau de Campagne (which I was never completely sold on), I had no knowledge of any other Sisley fragrances. However, there was something about the bottle design that caught my eye – heavy, minimalistic and ever so tastefully formed. I grabbed the tester bottle and spritzed my arm. I was then met with this strong, sharp and dry citrus / juniper opening that completely enthralled me.

But it wasn’t only the opening that clicked with me – this fragrance also had a sense of sophistication, luxury and decadence. The drydown retained some of the citrus notes, becoming more herbal over time (with detectable traces of patchouli, moss and pepper). At first, this worried me as most greens normally don't work on my skin. However, Eau du Soir came up trumps, retaining its sparkling freshness as it developed more into a fresh chypre. I seriously couldn’t stop smelling my arm – it was that addictive!

Eau du Soir is a rich and complex fresh chypre, with floral notes that are quite subtle, and its longevity and sillage are excellent. It was only after falling in love with this gem that I discovered it is marketed for women. I would have to seriously disagree – it comes across as more unisex than feminine, especially with the floral notes so far in the background. Also, for a fragrance released in 1990, I’m amazed at how contemporary and modern it still smells. Initially, I assumed it had been released within the last five years, so you could imagine my surprise.

For those who love Creeds, some of the Ormonde Jayne offerings for men, or even Richard James will find Eau du Soir highly rewarding. As for negative points, the cap is an ugly piece of gold-sprayed plastic, imitating a sculpture – I immediately threw mine away.

It’s expensive stuff but definitely worth investigating. But don’t be afraid – it’s not as feminine as you might think.

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

When I first tried this it was "Eureka! I have found it at last" (it meaning a signature scent for evening that I can go to no matter what; a grail, a fragrance I can call my own...) and then the breakup began. Probably with the patchouli or related accord; there is a harshness in desperate need of ylang-ylang and jasmine, or perhaps musk or even a trace of vanilla. Regrets..

classy, sexy, love the citrus top notes, with the musky bottoms... very lovely... not inexpensive at all.

Sisley pamphlet: “A floral chypre composed of a blend of syringe, rose of the orient, Egyptian jasmine; blended with iris and juniper, and the fruity notes of mandarin and grapefruit.”

This has a tangy opening of juniper and citrus. Then the iris appears and takes over. It is a powerful heart note. On the one hand it is earthy, even a bit fleshy. Yet at the same time (and perhaps with the juniper) it has metallic aspects. This is a floral chypre to be sure. Interesting, yet for me the fleshy/metallic note is a bit jarring, and it doesn’t work for me.

Bought this for my wife's birthday. Classy and long lasting. First I thought it would be cloying and overpowering but it isn't. More for a mature lady.

One of Queen Sophia of Spains favourites.

I'm still not sure if I can carry off this perfume, but oh, I so wish I could. I agree with those who say it's all about the dry down. I prefer to spray this a few hours before I go out, so it smells its best, as it warms up over time and I know I can count on its excellent staying power.