I'm reminded of the first Scherrer scent of 1979, the Trussardi nod coming three years later.
A dark rich chypre, yes, staring out with a sweet, balanced, mossy greenness, as Barbara Herman notes. I don't find it a leather at all. I would like it better if it had retained its sweet mossy opening, but it soon dries down to an unpleasant acrid base that is too woody and insufficiently floral for my tastes.
Herman calls it an animalic chypre and likens it to Fete, Miss Balmain, Sinan and Paloma Picasso as it passes through its dry down phases.
Top notes: Coriander, Hyacinth, Galbanum, Bergamot
Heart notes: Ylang Ylang, Jasmine, Rose, Tuberose, Orris, Geranium, Muguet
Base notes: Cedarwood, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Styrax, Olbanum, Moss, Vanilla, Amber, Musk, Leather
So, to sum up, love the sweet opening only, wish it lasted.
This is one of the most beautiful leather chypres I've ever smelled.At the opening, the closest thing I can compare it to is Paloma Picasso. However, it's quieter and subtly smokier. In the far dry down it becomes soft, slightly sweet and dry like Hermes' Bel Ami. I found a 5 ml mini in an antique store in New Orleans and immediately purchased a 1.7 oz bottle on line when I got back home. Even though it was marketed as a woman's scent while it was out, this definitely has a masculine edge to it and I urge every man who's interested in leather scents to try this. You won't be disappointed. I'm really surprised that there isn't more conversation about this whether on Basenotes or on line in general. In my opinion, its highly underrated. the following are the notes listed for this scent from various perfume blogs:
aldehydes, bergamot, hyacinth, galbanum, coriander, geranium, jasmine, tuberose, ylang ylang, leather, styrax, amber, cedar, sandalwood, patchouli, oakmoss, orris root, musk and lily of the valley (I suspect that there is also civet in this).
My only complaint is that it only comes in EDT concentration and leaves something to be desired in the way of silage and longevity. But while it lasts, it's divine! It's not hard to find as it is on ebay and at very reasonable prices for it's quality.
If you try it, I'd love to hear what you think. Let me know...
PS...this is wonderful by itself, but layering it with a little sprits of Terre D'Hermes takes it over the top!
I'm a fan of this scent as well, but having sniffed it first in 1984, it is apparent that it has been reformulated. The ancient juice was much ruder and more animalic, much more leather. I loved the old stuff, but this new version is much easier to wear. I would now describe it as a classy dry chypre, emphasis on dry. It is gloriously fresh with florals that burn off fairly quickly and is easily a unisex fragrance. Incredible value for the price.
Mysterious and beautiful scent. The opening is weird and medicinal. It might put some off but I learned to love it very quickly. Others have described its progression and attraction far better than I can. All I can say is that Trussardi (Donna) is extremely elegant and particular, dry and soft. Also can be had for a bargain (which is strange considering Trussardi in general is outrageously expensive.)
I normally follow the esteemed gentlemen who have praised this scent blindly and yes, the gender of scents is ambivalent and all about social convention, but this one is strictly worn by my wife.
I love this perfume .So woody and deep.One of the best chypres i have ever had.
A classical scent with a floral heart and rich base notes.The unique opening with aldehydes ,coriander and green notes gives a sharp freshness in the beginning.Then comes a floral heart that reveals fresh cut flowers aromas.Then the deapth of base notes of leather and rich woods:sandalwood,amber,cedar and a touch of patchouli.
Wonderful and lasting!