Donna Trussardi (1993)
by Trussardi

Yet another unsung classic leather from quality-conscious house of Trussardi!

I was reluctant to try this for quite a while because it contains ginger, which I categorically detest in perfume. But because I have been across-the-board pleased with all the other offerings by Trussardi, and because I refuse to die having overlooked a single leathery fragrance, I caved. And luckily, not only was I unable to detect any ginger whatever, but I was also incredibly pleased. In fact, I consider Donna to be the best Trussardi had to offer. (Naturally, it got the axe.)

Donna fills the well-rounded, chypre bill very well. And is a clear contender with some of the great leather chypre ladies of the sixties and seventies, like Miss Balmain, Parure, and the earlier Trussardi original. Like those earlier offerings, Donna has a very classic presence and is clearly a traditional effort; it's smart, it's elegant, and it's very full-bodied.
The difference is that Donna is less of a chypre, and more of a very statuesque, old-style, floral aldehydic. And should not be overlooked in this genre by lovers of the great old aldehydics, like Rive Gauche, First, and Calandre. It is very breathy and floral and fizzy in the opening (I guess the ginger's playing its role here -- very acceptably). And the leather persona isn't actually present until its drydown, and though obvious, it has a somehow very different, much less overpowering leather personality from other leathers. Rather than remind me of a glove, bag, car, or sofa, this leather calls to mind little perfumed stoles, muffs, or dainty, fragrant watchbands -- delicate, feminine, and intimate things.

I would classify this as a leather aldehydic, and pressed to compare it to other fragrances, I would veer toward either Patou's 1000 or Van Cleef and Arpels' First, or even Paco Rabanne's Metal.
That said, if I did not know its release date, and was asked to smell it without any information, I would vehemently ascribe it to the 1970s, and I would be deliriously bewildered, that I hadn't encountered this outstanding, ladylike creation ever before.

It really is a lovely, sentimental, and well-heeled lady, this one, and stands utterly peerless, as a gentile floral from the 1990s.
What accounts for its lack of popularity. Who knows?
I just know that I am incredibly glad for this development in my fragrance repertoire, as it's always life-affirming to be caught off guard by enchantments and to have my expectations so tremendously exceeded.

Highly recommended for fans of beautiful, old-style aldehydics..Even more highly recommended for people who are bummed about the reformulation of 1000.

27th February, 2010.