Diva (1983)
by Ungaro

In the same vein of fragrances as krizia, Fendi, La Perla and Paloma Picasso (it reminds me mostly Fendi Classic, the fragrance of my aunt in the time i was a child) this floral-aldehydate-chypre is a rich, dark-brown, spicy, animalic 80's powerhouse, sumptuous and chic that expresses a  central chord of rose, tuberose and ylang-ylang as absolute protagonist. The initial hesperidic (i smell a neroli accord), dark, spicy and earthy opening reminds me effectively the beginning Van Cleaf&Arpels's First which proceeds endly towards a slightly different evolution. The projection is immediately widespread and dusty-powdery-aromatic because of the power of aldehydes. The rose is the main note of the scent with its conservative and decadent touch of innocence, retro with the  indolic consistence that joins itself to the general density. Tuberose and ylang-ylang, together with mossy amber, imprint mellifluence and taste while the iris sets the  soapy refinement. The smell is brewing and deep because of the final almost caramellous power of honey, amber, vanilla and sandalwood together with spices (i perceive cinnamon or nutmeg) and  secret civet, musk or castoreum. I perceive this juice as one of the most animalic ever smelt with its amber, musk, honey, civet and may be castoreum. A note of ambery patchouli enhance the dark vintage vibe of the smell on the side of bergamot, rose, some greens, vetiver and amber. Another great creation by Mr. Polge for Ungaro.

18th November, 2011. (Last Edited: 22nd December, 2011.)

I owe Diva a bit of an apology. It's a heavy rose chypre, an era-specific genre (70s-80s) that I love. In the past I've noted that I like some of Diva's cohorts more than Diva. (Paloma, Knowing, Scherrer, La Perla.) I've tended to point to what I find 'off' in Diva. Too much honey sweetness, not enough green, a bit soft for a chypre.

Well, on reflection, I was wrong. When I see Diva as a hybrid rose chypre/oriental, it comes beautifully into focus. What I used to see as a simple honey sweetness I now recognize as a wonderfully sweet, waxy-honeycomb scent that connects the heartnotes to the spicy amber drydown in a rather lavishly paced transition. I used to want more brash green with more patchouli and moss in the drydown. What was wrong with me? While there is an identifiably chypric drydown, the amber emphasis is both comfortable and stirring.

A few other bits make Diva's evolution so interesting to keep tuning into. Right from the top there is an identifiable rose, but it is woody rather than green or dewy or brightly 'floral.' It calls to mind both rose and rosewood. And there's a slightly acerbic note that balances the honey and ties it to the dry spiciness that lasts through the entirety of Diva's drydown. Also, while I still hold that Diva is a rose chypre, there is an indolic note that suggests white flowers and keeps the rose from reading as strictly dark as in Scherrer or La Perla.

15th September, 2011.

With the IFRA restrictions on oakmoss, jasmine absolute, musks and many others, chypres, in particular, seem to be a dying breed. DIVA (edp) is a cultural gem and a very good example of the genre.

Notes are: mandarin, aldehydes, coriander, rosewood, tuberose, cardamom, rose, jasmine, narcissus, carnation, ylang ylang, patchouli, sandalwood, oakmoss, honey, vetiver, civet, musk and labdanum.

So called "modern chypres" , I'm looking at you 31 Rue Chambon, just can't compare.

Floral (look at that list) rich, complex and long lasting, DIVA is the Italian made superstar of the 80's and a pleasure to revisit today.

28th May, 2011.

For me, this in not even an extrovert let alone a diva. That said, it is a well constructed chypre exuding plenty of confidence, poise and assurance.

It contains a prominent rose note, but not in the least bit indicative of a general floral theme. An underlying dirtiness ensures that Diva is no dainty feminine fragrance, but more a piece of individualism. The later stages see things become a little spicier, and incense adds significant depth. Despite being and EDP, it is shorn of any great potency and possesses average projection.

This may not be one of Polge’s better creations, but it still deserves a bigger audience.

25th April, 2011.

This was what l wore as an evening scent back in the eighties when l wanted to feel confident & womanly. Diva was everything suggested by the name; loud, extroverted, attention-grabbing, devastatingly sexy. l haven't smelled it recently & l'm not sure l would wear it again, but l remember it fondly as a big, fruity rose fragrance, with a dirty, incensy drydown. lf you're into eighties power-fragrances, this is essential sniffing!

17th February, 2011.

(Review edp)

Diva is the 80's Queen. I love 80's and I have many fragrances of that decade. I feel Diva's scent is between Joop Femme and Beautiful by Estee lauder, and also shares some similarities with Ysatis by Givenchy. All this fragrances were created after Diva, and I think Diva is still the best of all.

Please stop comparing this, with the overwhelming and impossible to wear Paloma Picasso. Even the edp isn't as intense as paloma. I do not like Paloma, nor I ever liked it, but I do like Diva.

The bottle is gorgeous, truly DIVA-like!

26th January, 2011.