Zibeline (1928)
by Weil

What a treat. I never thought I would smell this amazing, rare perfume which was designed to be applied to fur. I carefully researched the notes, I applied it to my hand, I prepared to identify those which stepped to the forefront as most representative, and I inhaled. Imagine my surprise when I smelled… cherry almond. What is the matter with me? It’s similar to almond extract albeit fainter, richer, and more complex, maybe like heliotrope or scented tobacco. But I won’t lie; I don’t smell what I’m supposed to be smelling in here. If it’s any consolation to you Zibeline aficionados, I love this. I keep continually smashing my face into my hand for hours as it dies down to a delicious, sweet, but cryptic combination of notes. My nose totally flunked this test.

29th December, 2011.

According to my 1964 Dictionnaire des parfums de France, Zibeline is a fruity, ambery and spicy aldehyde floral chypre (neroli, hawthorn, linden, rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, incense, opopanax, oakmoss, vetiver, tonka bean and civet). Wow! You can hardly imagine a more complete olfactory palette than this. I adore this daring yet sophisticated composition. The opopanax/tonka notes give this elegant fragrance a warm and sensuous touch without making it too sweet or too powdery. Although there is no cinnamon, nutmeg or clove in Zibeline, I can smell a rich and delicious touch of spice in the dry down. The animal note (civet) does exactly what it is supposed to do, i.e. increase staying power without leaving a skunky "aftersmell". I have not seen Zibeline anywhere for over 20 years and I truly miss it.

11th October, 2011.

Where to begin, describing this majestic, powerful beauty?
Well, firstly, it reminds me very much of Cuir de Russie and vintage Bal a Versailles, but it is categorically better than either.
We always hear talk of Chanel 5 and Arpege being incredible aldehydic wonders of the twenties, but the use of aldehydes in Zibeline must really have been the gold standard then; it is just brilliant: the aldehydes are really working to clarify, unify and lighten the notes, and it's perfectly pretty from the first sniff. The drydown is very beastly, though, and a wonderful surprise. It stays with you and has such a luscious and complex sillage.. What immense character and power this scent holds.
Zibeline was first used to scent furs, which is a wonderful accompanying fact, as it really drives home the impression of luxury. And luxury is the best word I can come up with to describe Zibeline.

Zibeline tells the story of pre-depression era excess, sophistication and "modern" party life of the most glamorous sort. I imagine it on a fur-wearing, 1920s goddess with fabulous money, (someone famous perhaps), and elegant but totally independent of spirit. This is what Lilian Gish must have smelled like.
I think it is the most evocative vintage fragrance I have ever smelled.
And yet it is totally wearable today because it is very very perfect-smelling.

I highly recommend this one to fans of vintage fragrances, looking to purchase a discontinued treasure for your collection. You really couldn't be disappointed with this one.

2nd November, 2009.

I am with Brielle87 on this one - marvelous - I am very LUCKY to have a bottle of this masterpiece in my possession. Without a single doubt, this goes right up there with Guerlain's Jicky as a true classic. I dare say that Jean Desprez's wonderful Bal à Versailles (in it's civet laden cologne concentration) harkens back to this as a possible influence . . .

The civet note in the base this is absolutely stunning AND made even better by a lovely ambergris! Absolutely amazing!! The bottle I have was from France - Pre New York Weil - brought to the states in 1932 (indicated from the papers that came with it). I have read that it had to be reformulated several times due to lack of materials and wartime problems when the company moved to the United States as a result of the Nazi occupation during WWII. Unfortunately, again, from what I have read, the civet/ambergris note largely disappeared in later versions of this - being replaced by more spicy elements and sandalwood. I am sure it was still nice, but an awful shame to loose them!! However, rest assured that If I ever find any of the newer formulations, I'll snatch it up! I am sure it is fantastic too!

Perfect.

3rd October, 2009.

A true marvel of the parfumeur's art. This is a wonderful aldehydic floral in the classic sense, but it has a surprising animal quality one would expect from a floriental dry-down. This scent is all furs and champagne; romantic evenings dancing under crystal chandeliers at a glorious ball. It truly is the essence of a bygone era, yet it has a thoroughly modern quality to it. It has a truly seamless transition from head, to heart, to basenotes. A masterpiece which, much like many others, has gone to the great fragrance Valhalla in the sky.

26th January, 2009.