Omnia (2003)
by Bulgari

Sophisticated fresh yet not harsh citrusy and woody tea. A bit sweet. Very versatile and nice.

Omnia starts out with a very bright citrus note, black tea, and sweet spices, all of which remind me of Bigelow’s “Constant Comment” tea blend. These are soon joined by an oddly flat, milky-sweet accord which could very well be an attempt (misguided?) at “white chocolate,” but which comes off more like cocoa butter pudding.

As long as the opening gesture prevails, Omnia is a pleasantly transparent, effervescent, and well balanced spicy citrus oriental. The spice blend includes cinnamon, cardamom, ginger, and black pepper, and I believe it’s this last, in combination with the citrus, that offsets the flabby pudding accord and lends Omnia its distinctive sparkling texture.

Omnia is a relatively low-key fragrance from start to finish, with only modest sillage and projection. It troubles me only in its drydown, where the fading citrus leaves the black pepper alone to combat the milky blandness of the cocoa butter. That Omnia dissipates entirely before the pudding declares victory is all to its benefit.

When I wear Omnia, I can’t help but think that it narrowly misses being a much more exciting scent than it actually is. It is extremely appealing, and it’s structure shows some originality; yet there’s just something bland about it, too. I suppose the name does say it all – everything, to everybody. Omnia is comfortable, safe, and easy, but it’s not compelling.

Bright enough to be easily wearable but has a thread of spice running through it to give it some character. Not exciting but personally, I think this is the best of the line as the other ones are pretty interchangeable.

Bulgari Omnia

Notes: Mandarin, Saffron, Masala Tea, and White Chocolate (from Sephora.com)

On first spray, I smell a blended wood accord centered around cedar, pepper, and a note which I can only describe as "chewable baby aspirin orange". The baby aspirin note is quite off putting--it is bitter, artificial, and has a tendency to catch in my throat. Unfortunately, this unpleasantness lasts for a few hours. Omnia is rather linear, so when the aspirin note eventually fades, the blended woods and a soft, powdery and somewhat soapy musk are what remain. The overall effect in the drydown is akin to household items such as laundry detergent, dryer sheets or room spray. Even though tea is listed in the pyramid, I do not smell Bulgari's often-used note in Omnia. Some leathery, tabacco-like tea may have actually brightened this fragrance up a bit. As it stands, it is a rather soft, understated and formless fragrance from start to finish--it is almost as if it has no bone structure. With three sprays on each arm, Omnia stayed close to the skin the entire time. Now, about 12 hours later, there is a faint sweet musk skin scent. It is certainly not the worst fragrance I have experienced, and it will probably not offend anybody. There is simply nothing about Omnia that would entice me to wear it.

A light, rounded mandarin citrus, which opens up moderately spicy with ginger and cardamom. And yes, I think there is some pepper in there even though it isn’t listed. Then the spices from the middle enter in and I get a definite clove and cinnamon along with a rather basic tea note and a floral. I can’t really tell, but I will take their word that the floral is lotus flower – I believe the floral isn’t meant as an individual floral note, but simply to round out and provide a platform for the tea and spices. The drydown is a light, mellow sandalwood. I guess I join a long list of reviewers who don’t smell the chocolate – I don’t even get a hint of it. When Omnia is smelled close to the skin, most of these notes are quite clear, pure, and strong, and I admire that. They don’t, however, give off a lot of sillage, and they create a somewhat translucent fragrance that is a genuine delight. (Edit of September 29, 2008 review.)

I spent the last couple of days nipping in to a Sephora in midtown Manhattan to test a half-dozen Bulgari fragrances. This and Black were my favorites, though I see potential for the the blanc and vert once the weather warms up a bit. Omnia is warm and soothing, the perfect thing for weekends in cool weather. The opening is bergamot, but then I quickly get an array of chai spices, especially cardamom and a bit of black pepper. The base is sandalwood, with subtle hints of cedar, musk, and even a bit of soft leather. The effect is balanced and subtle-- I love that it has gourmand notes without slipping over into vanilla-marshmallow territory. The pepper and warm woods keep things clean and refined. Omnia is feminine but not at all cloying and would be great on men as well.

Omnia stays close to the skin, making it a possibility for settings where a more powerful oriental would get in the way. Longevity is only fair on me, but this is one that could be layered or reapplied during the day. Originally thought to order a mini but am leaning heavily toward a full bottle purchase.