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This is a review for the original parfum. It comes in a low, wide round bottle that is gold, glass, and black. There is a gold "cork" so you daub this scent on.
The scent is not too sweet, someone here described it as a white flower, leather chypre and I think that is apt. I can't help thinking that the earlier review was for the new Prada, and I don't really get much patchouli, amber and vanilla in this one. There might be just a smidgen but I doubt it. The notes to me are white flowers, something sharp (and annoying), possibly ylang ylang, probably aldehydes, leather, and something woody, possibly aoud or a tiny bit of vetiver.
There is however a warmth to this fragrance, but there is also an opposing coolness in the flowers and the woody "aoud" note. This is not a floral scent though, it is mostly a leather scent. Once it dries, the scent is almost linear on me, there is always a sense of the floral leather there and the silage is fairly strong, but this is a perfume so it is expected.
It is very different from some of my favorite leather scents, the leather is nothing like Cuir de Russie or Bandit it is more like Cuir Mauresque (but much less sweet), or Oud Cuir D'Arabie (cleaner than this one), so more of a raw leather saddle scent than a shoe or a suede . The scent is almost masculine, but the floral note might scare off some men, and ladies as well.
I am a fan of vintage scents (i.e. 1920's to 1940's) and I can't help thinking that this one belongs to that era more so than to the 1980's when I believe it originated. This is not an easy scent to wear. If you want a sweet comfortable leather I would pass. I do wear this every once in a while, but it is a challenging scent.
Not for everyone.
17 December, 2010