Angelique Encens opens with a blast of aromatic tuberose and radiant frankincense, with a touch of supporting nutmeg-like ginger and slightly bracing herbal angelica. Moving to the early heart the tuberose gradually recedes as the frankincense takes over as star supported by soft powdery vanilla and remnants of the herbal angelica. During the late dry-down the frankincense remains in support though heavily diminished, ceding control to the dry, soft powdery vanilla that is sole star through the finish. Projection is very good and longevity excellent at over 12 hours on skin.
Angelique Encens is one of the few Creed compositions that had stayed under my radar, only surfacing when a friend asked if I had ever tried it. Having answered that I hadn't, I quickly sought to rectify the situation, as the composition certainly has a significant following. Having now worn the composition a couple times on skin I can't say I understand all the hoopla. The open really is impressive, as a lovely natural smelling tuberose joins excellent frankincense, meshing perfectly with the ginger and angelica acting more as binder than anything else. So far, so good... Then the powdery vanilla from the base arrives and to a degree ruins things. This powdery vanilla really is pretty dry and lacking sweetness, forming a soft powdery cloud that integrates with the frankincense very well, yet still seems to soften the effect rather than enhance it. By the time the composition reaches its late dry-down, it is pretty much an all powdery dry vanilla affair that has been done many times before just as well as here. In all fairness, this is a vintage composition, so maybe at the time the composition was created it was considered innovative, but I doubt it. In the end, Angelique Encens opens strong but deteriorates as time passes, leaving one shrugging their shoulders as to what all the fuss is for. One thing that should be mentioned to the composition's credit is Angelique Encens smells nothing like the style of most Creed compositions today, proving along with some of the other early house offerings that Creed used to have some more interesting stylistic range. The bottom line is the $1120 per 250ml flacon on the aftermarket discontinued Angelique Encens is a welcome departure to the Creed compositions of today, but while it has some excellent ingredients and polish, its soft powder takes away a lot of its positive impact, earning it an "above average" 2.5 to 3 stars out of 5 rating and a solid neutral recommendation if one ignores its lofty price tag.
Angelica and incense notes dominated the opening giving a rather incense and herbal like feel to it, which lasted approximately 2-3 hours. I had difficulties trying to find the tuberose and jasmine notes since they aren’t dominant in the scent. Observing more closely, I do get traces of these notes in the heart of the scent once the angelica and incense begins to tone down. While this is happening the vanilla and amber begin to creep up into the front from the background. The floral notes combined with the vanilla/amber combo sweeten the scent making it much smoother. After about 4 hours, the infamous vanilla drydown joined along with amber and incense takes center stage. I do get a hint of ambergris although this was not officially listed on the (UK) creed boutique website. By now the fragrance stays closer to the skin but still irresistible. The lifetime of the scent is approximately 6-8 hours depending on the application. Along with Vintage Tabarome, Windsor, and Bois de Santal this is another yesteryear masterpiece from the classic Creeds. I’m proud to own this fragrance in my collection.
The Royal Creed Angelique Encens's ambergris-frankincense (aromatic-spicy) rendition is still nowadays one of the most irreproachable classic incense treatments of the worldwide perfumery and at once a terrific subtle rose-frankincense-animalic powder soapy accord (of immense beauty and sophistication). I smell just balance and perfection. The angelica/light-talky ambergris/frankincense accord arouses an aromatic (vaguely minty-eliotropic) dusty-powdery assertive aura (for several of its facets vaguely conjuring by soon- but it happens mostly along the way - "un-incensey" juices a la Grossmith Phul-Nana- anyway also slightly incensey scents a la Bois d'Armenie jump on mind) while rose and white flowers counteract the barely resinous solemn accord with a soapy sophisticated (vaguely victorian and more mondane) spark. All the elements are in perfect symphonic balance while an arcane chypre-floral talky final trail provides a "blow" of classy refinement. The final vanilla is almost ghostly and anyway magistrally appointed in order to preserve the general dry harmony with a whiff of soapiness (in perfect empathy with the rose-patchouli clean botanic-earthy laundriness). The final incensey-eliotropic vibe is a part of a more complex articulated chypre accord and not a straightforward liturgical onedimentional feel. A great sophisticated incensey-floral ambergris guys.
21st December, 2014 (last edited: 22nd December, 2014)
The opening of Angelique Encens is fairly bold, a sort of fresh and incense chypre, surrounded by a remarkable dose of amber, resins (benzoin), a light powdery floral accord and something smelling like tangerine or neroli (I'm being generous, as it actually smells more like Fanta), on a base of vanillin and something sweet and slightly sticky which resembles to a sort of light rendition of castoreum. Several artificial notes going on here – from the whole floral-citral accord ("floor cleaners" realm) to the synthetic, but still decent incense note (an ambery, heavy, archaic and slightly gloomy incense à la Goutal's Encens Flamboyant). Ambery drydown. Not bad, but surely in my opinion not a masterpiece – rather a decent, shallow floral-fresh-ambery incense which wants to look older and better than it actually is.
A classic, and deservedly so! Angélique Encens goes on very soapy, with an immediate and potent blast of sweetened angelica. This is followed by a vanilla note that sweetens the scent even further. Before it can become too syrupy-sweet, the incense of the title wells up to add a sobering dry foundation. A complex blend of spices (I smell mace, black pepper, and perhaps a touch of cumin) enters soon after, along with a gentle white flower accord that nudges what started as a very "masculine" fragrance into the realm of unisex.
As the scent develops, the white flower accord becomes dominant and begins to seem "perfumey" in a very old-fashioned way. I usually prefer my incense a bit less sweet and floral, as in Dzongkha or L'Homme Sage, but Angélique Encens reveals tremendous depth and complexity, with more than one happy surprise turn in its development. It endures quite well on the skin, with impressive sillage and projection right on through its sweet vanilla-ambery drydown. A wonderful scent, though not for me the "religious experience" some have described. I certainly don't need 8 ounces(!) of the stuff.
A totally unique scent - a shame it is discontinued.
Amber and vanilla dominate with frankincense in the background. The use of angelica, which has a rich, deep earthy quality to it is unique in perfumery and the ambergris rounds it out beautifully. Certainly one of the best orientals I have encountered.
Notes include angelica, vanilla, ambergris, rose, jasmine, thyme, frankincense, vanilla, musk and civet.
Can be found occasionally on Ebay, but at exorbitant prices. Samples can be found at Surrender to Chance.