Perfume Directory

Allure Homme (1999)
by Chanel


Allure Homme information

Year of Launch1999
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 1131 votes)

People and companies

PerfumerJacques Polge
PackagingJacques Helleu
Parent CompanyWertheimer

About Allure Homme

Designed to build on the ready built market from Chanel's Allure for women, this fragrance has a wide appeal from young to old. A sensual fragrance in a square bottle with a champagne colour top.

Allure Homme fragrance notes

Reviews of Allure Homme

This is a nice, sweet, spicy, recognizable woods fragrance. It has moments of smelling borderline too synthetic, but it develops on skin in a nice way that's attractive and comfortable.
25th August, 2018
Chanel Allure Pour Homme (1999) must have felt like a bit of disassociation/reality disconnect in a bottle when male fans of the house's masculine output first smelled it. The late 90's was a time of shrill ozonic masculines, flanked by "blue" aquatics and "fresh fougères" which relied on mainly lavender and calone accords grounded in white musk to make their point, with only a few gourmands and semi-orientals emerging to give a man any heft in his wardrobe. LVMH, Jacomo, Parfums Grès and Calvin Klein were all still fiddling with green scents long past their prime in mainstream designer fragrance, which kicked off a bit of resurgence for older styles right at the edge of the 2000's, but outside of that, the choices for Chanel were laid before them, yet they chose none of the above. Either Jacques Polge was just uncomfortable with the idea of making a men's "freshie" (at least until 2010's Bleu de Chanel), or he just didn't like where masculine perfume was at the time, yet couldn't go off into niche territory with what was to be the next male pillar for the house of Chanel, so he created something wholly unique within commercial constraints. Allure Homme basically follows oriental lines, but is fresher and dialed way down like a lot of such things of this ilk in the 90's, and works on the concept of 4 separate accords merging as one, even if it still has a traditional three-layer note pyramid. Green freshness, peppery warmth, woody elegance, and sensual florals were the 4 themes tossed around by Chanel in the ad materials of the day, and I can see that being attractive. Yves Saint Laurent would mostly steal soft citric peppery floral woods theme for their L'Homme (2006) some time on, but the scents aren't identical and L'Homme is hardly conceptual. Like all Chanel masculines, Allure Homme smells classy, despite however else it makes you feel personally in a wear, and despite the actual cost of it's materials, doesn't come across "cheap" like a lot of 90's fragrances do, it's just a very beige feeling of class.

Bergamot, mandarin orange, citron, and sweet peach open up Allure, with a trifecta of clean citrus to anchor this in the end of the 90's but with a fruity softeness that contrasts the usual radioactive grapefruit nightmare most male-oriented citrus scents followed at the time. This must have felt very unique for 1999, but it was certainly a far cry from the oakmoss chypres, animalic powerhouses, or creamy sandalwood orientals that came before it. Even Platinum Égoïste (1993) had more recognizable character in it's opening spray than Allure, despite being a freshened and bleached-out version of the original Égoïste (1990). The olfactory equivalent to elevator muzak continued in Allure Homme's middle segment of florals, represented by freesia, jasmine, geranium, rose, and a pink pepper that would later get recycled into Bleu de Chanel. The middle phase of Allure is almost dandy in it's bounciness, if not for that pepper and an overarching synthetic feel that makes you question the authenticity of the florals, but it's still more interesting than the majority of blue juices circulating at the time. Vetiver, patchouli, sandalwood, cedar, benzoin, tonka, and labdanum all enter the base in carefully-meted microscopic amounts, so much that only really the labadanum, tonka, and the patchouli really show themselves in what is otherwise a dull sweet and fresh glow of a skin scent. Everything about the end of Allure Homme is just an aura of fragrance, a simulation of something that like amaretto or grenadine cherry, is distinguishable as artifice. I don't sense the "4 aspects" composition of Allure 100%, since the "green freshness" claimed to be in Allure never really shows up in my opinion, but I get the pepper, woods, and florals just fine, so it's more like the 3 fates than the 4 seasons to me.

Allure Homme is very pleasant, inviting, inoffensive, like Herb Albert's "Rise" coming across a waiting room speaker system. There are some slight romantic touches here, but it's generalist enough that it can also sit with hands in lap for office use or a casual day out any time of year save the hottest or coldest times. Allure Homme is likeable, but I don't love it, and although many guys see it as the nadir of Chanel masculines, I think it is a clever solution to a unique problem of how to make a unique scent in an age of fashionable bland. Allure Homme would prove a better framework from which to build upon an army of distinctive flankers, than as a great standalone scent by itself, as Allure Homme Eau Fraîchissante pour l'Été (2002), Allure Homme Sport (2004), Allure Homme Edition Blanche (2008), Allure Homme Sport Cologne (2007), and Allure Homme Sport Eau Extrême (2012) all proved the original as being somewhat incomplete without adjustment. If you're not the kind of guy that really enjoys flankers, then sticking with the original is fine, as it's a moderately-performing and nearly-generalist "floriental/freshie" hybrid that won't smelling like anything else in the 90's, nor like much else outside the aforementioned YSL which borrows from it. I guess this uniqueness of extreme blending is both what is Allure Homme's strongest suit, and weakest link paradoxically, since the scent just doesn't really smell like anything, but smells less like "nothing" than Calvin Klein's cK One (1994), so I guess that makes it "something" after all. If this is the worst masculine Jacques Polge has done for the house, it's still a far sight better than the claimed "best" from many of Chanel's peers of the day, so there's that I suppose.
20th August, 2018 (last edited: 07th October, 2018)
Chanel Allure Homme has passed its glorious day.
15th February, 2018
A blast of citrus in the opening, after that it becomes a very dull and boring scent. Definitely not worth the high price. There are much better fragrances for even half the price.
08th February, 2018
I don't know how this was in the 90s and early 2000s, but I have tried it several times over the last 7 years, and my opinion hasn't changed. This is a remarkably unremarkable bland scent that is anything but alluring. I get citrus over a sweet base of woods and tonka, well-proportioned and abstract but thoroughly boring and without any identity. Additionally it's just too discreet on skin, with fleeting longevity.

If you want to wear a perfume that no one would ever remember, go for this. For a warm woody oriental with a touch of freshness, one can get Egoiste instead which is light years ahead in terms of aroma, depth and richness.

23rd December, 2017
A warm, comforting scent that starts off with a fresh, citrus opening. Later, the drydown is spicy and creamy, with plenty of sweet-woody notes.

Perry Ellis M is similar, but I prefer the clean, freshness of the citrus in Allure that lightens this up and, IMO, makes it more versatile.

Great for fall or winter and perfect for anytime you need to get close to someone. Performance is good, both in projection and longevity.
29th November, 2017

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