I'm a relative noob, here....but I gotta say this is absolutely amazing. I'm in love with Iris Silver Mist, and thought that was THE ONE! It may still be, but this permeates my skin and wafts gently around me for hours...it's wonderful. The Amber wrapped in a subtle sweetness is the kicker. So far, I would put this just (barely) below L'air du desert marocain...and Ava Luxe Madame X, which has sadly, been discontinued. This is truly amazing. Im so glad I bought an FB.
Didn't take long to remember what AS smelled like. AMBRE RUSSE hit me after about 10 minutes of applying. This stuff is great. The first few minutes gave me the impression that a mistake was made purchasing AS. That impression didn't last long. You get that skankiness in the initial spray.Other than Musc Ravageur, this fragrance turns from horrible to great in a matter of minutes. You don't have to wait until the drydown to get this effect though. 8.5/10
Faultless perfect amber goodness.
Nothing needs to be added or tweaked in neither smell nor performance for me. No 'i wish', No 'if only'. Just perfect.
A beautiful blend of sweet resins and herbal aromatic reinforcements laying on a golden silky bed of amber and vanilla.
Bay leaf and myrrh are the middle name here and are key components to the uniqueness of this beauty.
It's funny the color of the juice is orange because that's how i exactly envision the smell of this scent: Sunkissed sweet resins melting and gently swirling in a form of orange/golden liquid on my skin.
Who needs gourmands when you got this ?
Strong Amber, smokey and super super dry and very sweet. This one is pretty much linear but is very challenging expectially at the beginning. It's name applies to what it is, Amber (or the king of ambers if you will) and this is about as amber as you can get. Can come off as too mature (I see my grandmother wearing this). For me it's neutral but I still rate this a 4 out of star only because it's done so well as expected from this house and its what I expected. Amber fans may find this the holy grail for pure amber based frags.
Ambre Sultan goes onto my skin as a chaotic miasma that manages to be excessively sour, sickly sweet, and bitter, all at the same time. I attribute this assault on the nostrils to the confluence of sharp, bitter oregano and the trademark Sheldrake/Lutens sweet amber accord. The two come at each other as mighty waves and collide with a titanic crash.
The first few times I tried Ambre Sultan I was unable to endure this cacophony. Over the subsequent wearings I persevered long enough to enjoy the dusky, lascivious spiced amber accord at Ambre Sultanís heart and the luscious sweet labdanum drydown, but wasnít convinced that they were worth waiting for. It took several more widely spaced attempts before I decided that they were. My ultimate appreciation of Ambre Sultan is based on my understanding of why that unsympathetic opening may be necessary.
For what itís worth, hereís my theory: Like so many of the Serge Lutens oriental fragrances, Ambre Sultan flirts with being insufferably sweet. Unlike some of the others, it avoids plunging into a powdery-syrupy quagmire. How? I attribute Ambre Sultanís success to the balancing influence of its sharp herbal and spice components. These hard-edged savory notes offset the amberís potential to cloy at the nostrils. However, in order to endure and yield this effect at the heart of the scent, the relatively volatile sharp notes must be used in great concentration. The end result is a unique and beautifully balanced heart accord, but at the price of a sharp and confrontational opening. Given Serge Lutensís penchant for provocative openings, this price seems very much in line.
Patience with Ambre Sultan yields exceptional rewards, thanks to the scentís enormous tenacity. For that first half an hour of confusion, I get as much as twelve hours of libido enhancing ambery goodness. The dry amber skin scent persists for even longer. Itís no surprise that such a long lasting fragrance is also very potent. I find Ambre Sultan overbearing and difficult to wear in high temperatures, and prefer to use it in controlled doses in any case. Besides strong projection, Ambre Sultan leaves a trail of abundant sillage, establishing an olfactory aura around its wearer.
Are those top notes challenging? Yes. But Ambre Sultan remains a giant among amber scents. The only amber Iíve found that can hope to rival it is the very different, and less confrontational Ambre Precieux from Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier.