Arabie (2000)
by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

ARABIE made me smile, the way a child usually does when presented with a large plate of dates, dried fruits, marzipans, and other variety of spiced and candied desserts. It smells so enticing I'm not sure if I should sniff it or lick it! In texture it feels dense and syrupy, almost sticky-chewy. And just when I thought I had it figured as a gourmand scent, it presents me with deep dark woodsy accords. Honestly, I'm not sure how or even when to wear such a fragrance but as far as olfactory art goes, Arabie is simply delightful as it conjures up a merry image of a party in full swing, under the shade of heavily brocaded tents in some distant exotic land.

The opening of Arabie strikes me as a dense, dark, date-laden dessert, spicy, but not especially sweet. The key words here are ‘dark’ and ‘date-laden’. This opening feels rather unwearable to me. However, as it develops the darkness fades and the date dominance recedes. Here it becomes quite pleasant smelling, a possibly wearable gourmand. Certainly not for me, but perhaps for someone else.

Love at first sight.

The first time I tried Arabie, I was just wandering about in Liberty's. Not really thinking of buying any new perfume, but just in quest of raising up my spirit with lovely smells.

It was instantaneous. I never smelled anything like that. The contact with my skin and what it revealed awoke a deep and inner sensation. A mix of sensual and sexual pulsions that almost turned into obsession.
For a week of so, I couldn't think about anything else than the smell of it and the emotions it had brought to my mind. I had to go back and buy it, I couldn't help it.

Arabie is a real invitation to travel. The spices transport you immediately to a hot yet dry country. North Africa. All of the sudden, came back to my mind images of kasbha, red houses, sun, oasis, palm trees, donkeys, medina, desert and souk.
It was so powerful I couldn't help smelling myself. The power of dried dates is the first note my nose felt in love with.

However, after a while, this perfume evolves into something very complex. Some would think of Christmas. I personally think of Ras el Honout. A secret combination of the best spicies often used in couscous or tagines and believed to be an aphrodisiac.

The risk of addiction is high, so you should try to wear it only on occasions and not daily as you might not enjoy the best of it and it's originality might fall into a routine that would kills all aromas.

It's so unconventional that it makes it be ahead of its time.

Whether you like it or dislike it, Arabie just won't leave you indifferent. A must from Serge Lutens' house.

I must agree with Brielle87, Arabie *is* all things wonderful. Very sweet without being cloying, wonderfully deep and rich with fruits, spices and a little wood. I couldn't stop smelling myself. It's such a beautiful, perfect balance. In one sense I do understand why this would be a challenge for some people but at the same time I can't believe anybody could not love this. Highly recommended.

When I first ordered a small sample of Arabie, a couple of years ago, I originally disliked it. It was extremely strong, with the composition coming across as both overwhelming and very over the top. However, these qualities soon compelled me to revisit it by dabbing more onto my wrist every so often.

Once I half-finished the sample vial, I ended up giving the rest away – I still wasn’t completely convinced by it. However, I couldn't completely forget about Arabie as time went by. It was only several months later that, while sampling other fragrances in department stores, I suddenly felt the need to give it another try. And then another. And then another…

Arabie is a real tough cookie and, even by Serge Lutens’ standards, also very ‘off the wall’ (but in a wonderful way). Put simply, it requires more perseverance and patience than most of the challenging niche scents currently on the market. As I already mentioned, it wasn’t easy falling in love with it – in fact it was almost a constant struggle. But now that perseverance has fully paid off, I am finally able to appreciate it for what it is – an extremely potent, tenacious and complex fruity gourmand.

Although some would claim Arabie to be unwearable, I consider it to be just as versatile as any other revered scent once that moment of revelation arrives (if it ever does). Its resinous nature also enables Arabie to be worn effectively well during the warmer months. It may be very sweet but don’t let that fool you into thinking it’s strictly a cold weather scent.

Yes, it does smell like a spicy fruitcake and, yes, its pungent and dark fruitiness does remind me somewhat of Christmas. However, if nothing else, its aroma certainly does conjure up images of North Africa and the Middle East (quite a remarkable feat since there is no oud, whatsoever, in the composition).

Arabie is brash, blatantly unapologetic and totally unconventional. It’s definitely one of the best creations from this house.

[Original submission date: 21 July 2008]

I have to agree with moltening on this. At first it is overpowering. But the sweetnesss isn.t that nauseating sugar sweetness. It is of dried fruits. It reminds me of the filling of a particular Naan that I like that has dried fruits and coconut.

After the initial shock, the typical Lutens spices come into play. Surprisingly, I can't stop smelling myself. My body runs warm and the heat makes the scent almost glow. Amazing lasting power and sillage too.