I remember this the first time from about 1978, when I was 11. I went on a school trip to London and went into the perfumery in Harrods or possibly Selfridges. I remember thinking "pepper" (black pepper). To be honest I wouldn't have recognised it today without seeing the bottle.
It's soapy (I think I mean oakmoss when I say that), spicy, masculine, very dated. Reminds me oddly of Aramis 900 at the start in it's old fashioned soapiness. But also brings to mind Kouros or better Polo Green with fresh tobacco and it's unapologetic strength. It's like smelling an old-fashioned cologne off a leather jacket. It's powerful and lasts for hours.
I love this. I love it because it takes me back in time to a decade (1970s) that I experienced first hand as a child, and the fragrance now allows me to imagine it as an adult.
Oddly enough it reminded me too that in those days the smell of cigarette smoke was everywhere. Nowadays like most people I've learned to find the smell of cigarette smoke disgusting, but somehow I miss it when I wear this fragrance.
I see a man in his early 30s, in a smart leather jacket and open necked shirt, in a night club, handlebar moustache , sideburns, gold chain, hairy chest, a pack of Benson and Hedges. His Ford Capri is parked outside and he'll drive home later quite drunk, along with most of the other guys in the joint. It's 1975. He's still oozing confidence and chatting up the ladies. In a few years the music and fashions of the next decade will be weird and alien to him, as will the new materialism to come. He'll lose his hair and gain a belly. He won't get to buy a Golf Gti cabriolet because by then he needs a practical family car. But his children will remember "that aftershave" well into the next century.
A true classic. August 2015
My father used to wear this in the 70's and I would occasionally sneak a spray or two before school, just to feel mature. It's a nice leather chypre, but in today's age of synthetic reformulation it smells phony and not the rich leathery depth I recall from childhood. To be fair, I have some much better versions of this theme in Bel Ami, Anateus and the like. If you are looking for a budget leather, you won't find better at this price. If you have the money, better quality is abundant. A classic still the same, so I give it a Thumbs Up.
This is the first "Big Boy" cologne I ever had (1982 at 12 years old). Rocking Aramis at 12 now seems odd but I have fond memories of walking down the halls of Jr High School wearing this. Spicy and heavy. A GREAT fall/winter scent. A classic for sure.
a heavy and dry woody,lethery scent.it is complex and strong.the Scent starts quite potent with bergamot, gardenia,clover and aldehydes.these adorable sharp and fresh notes,is the most interesting surprise for me.
This brief introduction,leads to the heart which is full of patchouli,sage, jasmine and a little cardamom.the dry down is simply weird and virile with
leather,vetiver and sandalwood that makes it eternal classic,absolutely gorgeous and elegant.the sillage is ok and the longevity is very good on my skin.
For gay men in the early 70s, this was as prevalent as Old Spice for our father and grandfathers. Every male, straight or gay, BATHED in it, so my memory of it is that is nauseatingly repulsive.
However, once my nose became educated, and I was able to disassociate the scent from experience, I find that this is a dry, tweedy, oak moss-laden, chypre, that is quite basic 101 in your face, direct OAK MOSS CHYPRE, in case anyone was interested in having a basic course in that area.
As such, it is an excellent reference scent. The re-formations are (thankfully) less powerful and more balanced, but still striking.
Top: Artemesia, Bergamot, Cumin, Gardenia
Heart: Jasmine Patchouli, Orris, Vetiver, Sandalwood
Base: Oak Moss, Castoreum, Amber Musk