The tangy basil - citrus - bergamot opening comes laced with cool spice. This is set over a base of lightly sweetened dark woody vetiver and patchouli. Coriander adds an air of aromatic sophistication but even a large dose of linalool can't stop the profile from quickly plunging into obscurity. It gets more and more muddied till the whole thing becomes just a featureless dark brown with a citrus tang rising up; like a brown bear in a bear pit, thrashing around on the mandarins put down for bait.
The recent fashion for adding piquant notes to the profile of designer masculines shows how, in theory, this type of thing could be improved. A hard edge at the top would add definition to the structure and could help to provide direction to its evolution. But the success of this strategy depends on material quality, whether its traditional incense or pepper etc, or even aldehydes that make the cut, or whether the option is for savage industrial chemicals.
After a promising opening vintage Eau pour Homme becomes a disappointing muddy brown mess; its dull and its boring, but it could be worse - at least it isn't offensive.
20th September, 2016 (last edited: 27th September, 2016)
I have the current formulation that renders the listed note pyramid completely redundant. No lavendar, no sandalwood and certainly no oakmoss. It opens with neroli and citrus and then just turns extremely sour and uninviting, a combination of the extinguishing opening notes polluted by a tinge of a terrible clove note. It's a shame because the note pyramid promises a lot.
This Armani is what Bvlgari and Paul Smith have been trying to imitate all this time. It's a classic build and very straightforward without being boring. I sometimes wonder whether there is vetiver in it. This is essentially one of the scents trying to create a fresh escape route from the heavy-handed 80's just before the advent of Calone. Orangey scents seem to work well on me, so of course I like this one.
My first purchase of this was 1988 along with the appropriate Armani Slate Gray and Steel Blue Casual elegance.
The Vintage had a very cool,sleek, classic, citrus and Lavender opening supported by a dry Oakmoss and high quality synthetic Sandalwood.
It was perfect in it's composition and was so very Armani in it's elegant presentation.
This, along with a number of 60's, 70's and 80's perfumes, has suffered greatly from the removal of Natural Oakmoss and HQ synth Sandalwood.
Synthetic astringent Citrus Faux Bergamot rich and Moss poor takes what was a Sleek and Chic to Scratchy and Drab.
Thumbs up for the Vintage.
Thumbs down for anything after 1999.
10th January, 2016 (last edited: 15th September, 2016)
A soapy Eau de Cologne type smell. I have a mini of what I believe is considered vintage. This rivals Chanel Eau de Cologne on shelves today, or Frederic Malle Cologne Indelible, but then adds moss to the base to give an added dimension, a luxurious velvet backdrop to the Eau de Cologne.