The tangy basil - citrus - bergamot opening comes laced with cool spice. This is set over a base of lightly sweetened dark woody vetiver and patchouli. Coriander adds an air of aromatic sophistication but even a large dose of linalool can't stop the profile from quickly plunging into obscurity. It gets more and more muddied till the whole thing becomes just a featureless dark brown with a citrus tang rising up; like a brown bear in a bear pit, thrashing around on the mandarins put down for bait.
The recent fashion for adding piquant notes to the profile of designer masculines shows how, in theory, this type of thing could be improved. A hard edge at the top would add definition to the structure and could help to provide direction to its evolution. But the success of this strategy depends on material quality, whether its traditional incense or pepper etc, or even aldehydes that make the cut, or whether the option is for savage industrial chemicals.
After a promising opening vintage Eau pour Homme becomes a disappointing muddy brown mess; its dull and its boring, but it could be worse - at least it isn't offensive.
20th September, 2016 (last edited: 27th September, 2016)
I have the current formulation that renders the listed note pyramid completely redundant. No lavendar, no sandalwood and certainly no oakmoss. It opens with neroli and citrus and then just turns extremely sour and uninviting, a combination of the extinguishing opening notes polluted by a tinge of a terrible clove note. It's a shame because the note pyramid promises a lot.
This Armani is what Bvlgari and Paul Smith have been trying to imitate all this time. It's a classic build and very straightforward without being boring. I sometimes wonder whether there is vetiver in it. This is essentially one of the scents trying to create a fresh escape route from the heavy-handed 80's just before the advent of Calone. Orangey scents seem to work well on me, so of course I like this one.
My first purchase of this was 1988 along with the appropriate Armani Slate Gray and Steel Blue Casual elegance.
The Vintage had a very cool,sleek, classic, citrus and Lavender opening supported by a dry Oakmoss and high quality synthetic Sandalwood.
It was perfect in it's composition and was so very Armani in it's elegant presentation.
This, along with a number of 60's, 70's and 80's perfumes, has suffered greatly from the removal of Natural Oakmoss and HQ synth Sandalwood.
Synthetic astringent Citrus Faux Bergamot rich and Moss poor takes what was a Sleek and Chic to Scratchy and Drab.
Thumbs up for the Vintage.
Thumbs down for anything after 1999.
10th January, 2016 (last edited: 15th September, 2016)
A soapy Eau de Cologne type smell. I have a mini of what I believe is considered vintage. This rivals Chanel Eau de Cologne on shelves today, or Frederic Malle Cologne Indelible, but then adds moss to the base to give an added dimension, a luxurious velvet backdrop to the Eau de Cologne.
ohh my my ...in my entire perfumery hobby ( a recently acquired one ! ) there was no other scent I anticipated / dreamt of smelling as much as Armani Eau Pour Homme , from the initial days when I started reading about fragrances (for the past 4 to 5 months ) to this day ...this is one fragrance I was dying to smell as the love it was shown by serious hobbyist is universal in their praise albeit many have observed that the vintage was the ultimate classic and new formulation is a pale shadow of its former self ...but since I couldn't find the vintage I ordered the latest with silver bottom ( not black ) in a blind purchase .. ...and today is the first day of my wearing ..and what a fragrance it has turned out to be ..rich / smooth / classic ...of all the samples that I have from various houses ...barring a few honorable exceptions like Aventus & Guerlain L'eau Boisee and a few others...this has been by far the best smelling fragrance ..and I feel like kicking myself that I have spent so much time on this earth without even knowing that something like this exists and can bring so much joy to the wearer...!
It opens with a rich citrus / tangy opening and very quickly settles down to a smooth / classic scent .....and boy it does smell absolutely fantastic !
In my reviews so far I was worried that I have been giving thumbs down to so many perfumes that even basenotes.net editors will think that this guy is "negativity personified" but I was always searching for that smell which would literally sweep me off my feet in a good way , doesn't smell synthetic ....doesn't get cloying ..like so many of the modern chemically laden horrors existing today and I guess after wearing this ...I am very close to finally settling down with this hobby as a content man.
For all basenoters who haven't smelled this yet ...please go ahead and buy the bottle and you wont regret it ...its the epitome of classic citrus / with a tangy / spicy hint coming from the clove and the basil notes and finally settles to a woody mossy base.
The Longevity and sillage is average 4 hrs on my skin but I need to wear it a bit more to say that with certainty.
This will surely uplift the mood under any weather but summers is what its meant to brighten up ...ohh boy ...cant get enough of it ..!
I highly recommend it as a blind buy and in my books this is 9 on 10 classic fragrance !