Bel Ami (1986)
by Hermès

My all time favorite. I originally bought this in my early twenties and got a lot of flack from my friends for it. Actually, it was the topic of a heated argument back in the day. A decade later, those same friends have come around and finally get it. It smells like a one can imagine James Dean or Steve McQueen might have: vintage sport cars, money, mountains, tobacco and alcohol, and a per-occupation with adventure. And, as odd as it sounds, it smells even better after a hard workout or a swim in the ocean.

Think of it as the Ivy League brother to Ralph Lauren Polo (Original). In my opinion, this is one for a successful "guys guy" in fall or winter. And, don't listen to them: women might feign like they don't get it, but speaking for personal experience, it is a distinct scent they will fondly remember for a long, long time.

22nd January, 2012.

I got a flu a day after testing this, so I never had a chance to review it while it was fresh in my mind. I do recall that my impression was neutral because the heavy floral component accompanying the leather didn't achieve the desired result. I know I can't rock straight-up leather, and it needs to be cut with something mellow, but I think floral is the wrong direction for that mellow, or at least this floral is. It's a solid composition, but I don't know how wearable it is.

12nd January, 2012.

Not as compelling under my nose as some other leathery pillars as Derby, Knize Ten, Cuiron, Habit Rouge or Parfum d'Habit but a well orchestrated and opulent leathery fragrance for sure although many told that the old formulation was a different, higher level. Anyway BelAmi is an opulent spicy-floral and leathery chypre that starts with a lemon-neroli accord followed by a deep floral soul made of carnation, iris and ylang-ylang before ending in an enveloping kind of orangy-woody dry down with a  synthetic leathery undertone. The dry down, with its touch of acidity, is sweetly aromatic and incensey but slightly disappoints me because i find it too linear and lacking of a certain dosage of woodsiness, earthiness or changeability, trails that other fragrances as Habit Rouge, Aramis and JHL  embody (the note of vetiver here is too faint in my opinion, the usage of vanilla and hidden resins turns out too caramellous and resinous- stirax?- and the lack of patchouli reduces boldness and exoticism). Since i smell a certain level of dirtiness in the blend i notice some similarities with the classic but dirty  Aramis which is less floral, less leathery and decidedly more woodsy and earthy. A respectful classic above all anyway. Longevity and sillage are less faint than for other Hermes's.

25th September, 2011.

A spicey, somewhat citrus opening that dries down into a musky leathery accord. I’m not a big spice fan and don’t much like the opening, but it doesn’t last that long. It is decent juice, but when I’m in the mood for leather I’m more apt to reach for the likes of Knize 10 or Parfum d’Habit.

9th August, 2011.

Much loved by The-odor (where is that great early Basenotes reviewer now, from whom I learned so much?), less loved by a reviewer from another site, who likened it to the guts of a squashed squirrel, baking in the roadside sun, I can see why Bel Ami divides opinion. Mellow juice of golden-brown, but with a definite undercurrent, speaking of deeper, dirtier things - it's certainly unique.
If you can forget those ugly rumours, it's smooth and distinguished, to be sure.

5th July, 2011.

Another disappointment .
WHERE IS THE LEATHER? where? Luca Turin puts this fragrance in the list of the best leathers .That means that the main and dominant note of these fragrances must be leather.
But all I get from this fragrance is the typical OLD SCHOOL smell, suitable for your grandfather .
Apart from this , Bel Ami is hard to find in stores and it's very expensive; poor longevity and projection .
BEL AMI is an incredible novel written by Guy de Maupassant, about a character, George Duroy, who has a great sex appeal with women and who gets what he wants in life .I thought that the fragrance would have the same "strenght" as George , but it has nothing to do.
I am basing my review on the latest reformulation, I hope the old one is much better than this .

29th June, 2011.