Bois de Violette (1992)
by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

A horrible, nausea-inducing overdose of synthetic cedar (Iso E Super), violet leaf and sweet, candied violets. I've read somewhere that Bois de Violette has a 65% concentration of Iso E Super... No surprise here. If you don't like Iso E Super, or the usual suspects that also have an overdose of Iso E Super (like Terre d'Hermes, Kyoto or Feminite des Bois), avoid this at all costs.

I usually agree with the perfume critic Luca Turin on his "5 star" choices, but this one is not to my taste. Perhaps it fits the current trends in perfumery, but I don't believe Bois de Violette will stand the test of time (or future IFRA regulations for that matter).

3/10

Well, isn’t this yet another very VERY familiar Lutens. Of course, one of the very first scents from this house.

Very recognizable and expected Sheldrake creation. Many other scents made by this man come immediately to mind, starting from Feminite du Bois…
Honeyed and creamy plumy woods placed under a candied bouquet of violets.

Quite simple as that and it is pretty damn nice. Non-complicated sweet and crisp woody oriental goodness all the way through.
Thumbs up easily although this is not full bottle worthy to me, not the least because I think this scent is more fitting for women. (Although it is unisex and recommended for men at least to try, obviously.) Also, I personally like even more scents from this house that has that certain type of edge which is lacking from this…

Beautiful fragrance that is very practical and easy to wear but not boring at all.
4 stars as far as Pigeon is concerned.

A rare example of perfect balance in a perfume. Throughout its developement, the woody, oriental and floral elements are in such close harmony that I found it difficult to pick out discreet notes. Instead, they formed a whole new creature, and quite a beautiful one. In The Guide, I read about BDV's relationship to Dolce Vita, and I see the connection, haveing worn Dolce Vita years ago. I remember that fragrance as smelling like Root Beer, which BDV, thank God, does not. My only disapoinment is that it's not quite as long-lasting as I would like. Marvelous nonetheless.

Violet flowers, leaves, and cedar. The cedar is the perfect foil to bring out the floral aspects of the ionone note as well as the greenness of the violet leaf. In The Guide, Luca Turin sings the praises of this scent, speaking of the rotational nature of the notes from Feminité du Bois; he analyzes the swapping around of the prominent note in each of the derived scents, and expounds on how the violet and cedar are brought out in this one. I can't believe that the prominent notes are the only ones here; there might be hints of honey or beeswax, cinnamon, and orange blossom in here, but deftly relegated to the background. These or some other elements spice, soften, and impart a warm, animalic note to the mix. Beautiful, fairly lasting, subtle but sensuous. One of the best.

A delightful and well-balanced fragrance, with a glowing heady note of violets backed by a soft backdrop of woods. The woods are raspy but never harsh, and the overall effect feels textured and utterly luxurious, somewhat like a beautiful grosgrain ribbon. The two sides to the perfume, floral and woody, combine to make this utterly unique and unisex.

5 Stars.

A boozy violet. Thick and medicinal like most of the Serge Lutens line (I love the "house accord"). Not my style. Love the woods, though. I think there's a hint of cedar.