Calvin (1981)
by Calvin Klein

This is Calvin Klein's sole representative of a classic 80s fougere. To discontinue this is an absolute crime. This along with the amber powerhouse Obsession for Men are definitely top players in their genres.

Loved this one back in the day. I found this same scent again packaged as Old Spice Fresh After Shave.

The Calvin I’m testing – the early 2000’s reissue – is different from what I remember of ck’s Calvin in the ‘80s. What I remember seemed to be better than the one I have now – it had about the same accords, but it more defined notes, smoother transitions, and the sillage was less chaotic. What I am testing now is probably a reissue; it’s not quite the fragrance I knew in the past. Calvin opens with a powerful citrus / aromatic accord that is as masculine as it is strong. The citrus note extends itself into the floral / slightly spicy middle notes where the verbena and orange blossom form a foundation with a soft cinnamon leaf / geranium. At the same time, the base extends its sandalwood and maybe even the musk into the middle, creating a complex and nice accord that has quite good longevity. The middle notes are less potent than the opening, but no less masculine. The drydown is the weakest level IMHO. It is almost ‘normal’ in vigor, but it can become very cloying with heat or exertion, or if too much is applied. The fragrance has strong sillage and very good longevity.

It’s Calvin’s propensity to heat up and broadcast too powerfully that causes me to hesitate about it. I don’t remember it doing that in the ‘80s… It’s still a nice fragrance, but it is not the excellent fragrance it used to be – too many corners have been cut. I say, “Bring back the original… It was better.”

Calvin’s opening maneuvers are pretty conventional: tart lemon, sweet bergamot, and lavender that presage a classical fougère formula. A strong anise note and additional aromatic elements emerge to establish a spicy central accord that reminds me very much of the classic Azzaro pour Homme, though decidedly softer and sweeter. The foundation is predictably heavy on coumarin, and mercifully free of the crude woody amber basenotes that mar so many newer fougères.

While Calvin is much less loud than some of its contemporaries, it is not a retiring scent. It won’t enter the room before you do, but you’ll always know you’re wearing it. Calvin’s spicy-aromatic heart is relatively quick to deconstruct, so that within two hours of wear what remains is a much more bland, and rather sweet, traditional fougère of medium intensity. I’d prefer it if Calvin retained its spicy edge for longer, since the extended drydown is disappointingly dull. "Businesslike" is how I would describe this scent, and decidedly conservative, in a style that, while perfectly attractive, is not the current fashion.

This was one of only three scents I owned in 1981, and I loved it. It came in a drawstring bag, and I only took it out for special occasions. Recently, I purchased a bottle on ebay, so excited to, once again, smell that amazing scent. Alas, this was not the scent of my youth. As I read the reviews here, I realize I must have one of the reissues. How sad. The original was excellent and easily the best masculine Calvin has ever done. In fact, the only one of his I've ever been able to wear. I will keep searching for a bottle of the original juice. It's worth it.

You can't keep a good classic down! An unpretentious, totally outstanding fougere scent of some distinction. Though this is an 80s retro scent, it still smells as timeless as today. One of Calvin Klein's best creation.