A very nice fougere from the mid-1970s, that makes a statement without using trumpets and bugles, as it might have if it had waited a decade and joined the powerhouse men's scents of the 1980s.
This is light and fresh smelling, using all the elements we've come to expect from a fougere (lavender, labdanum, bergamot, oak moss, vetiver, etc.) but with a touch so light that it becomes very sophisticated in its approach.
The only reason I am giving it a neutral is that its longevity and sillage are not up to par. Otherwise, it is perfectly decent, just not outstanding.
Captain by Molyneux opens with a sharp, powerful citric-herbal and aldehydic accord on a raw oak moss note blended with vetiver, spices, a quite classic masculine floral accord (lavender, rose, carnation) and a nondescript exotic, irresistibly aromatic feel all over. What makes Captain original and particularly great in my opinion, aside from its overall quality, is how the patchouli note is elaborated here; it is earthy and rooty, but with a totally peculiar sort of thick, rich and subtle sweetness, slightly vanillic, that makes it almost resemble to licorice. Which is a really modern feature, that after a while blends with tobacco and perhaps a softer woody note (sandalwood?) to provide a fabulous, “round” sense of dark-sweet warmth. Quite a peculiar feature for such a powerhouse, making it somehow more “mysterious” and sophisticated than the average for this genre. Captain is a solid, compelling, complex scent with an incredibly high quality of materials – you can tell it by noticing how rich, sharp and clear notes smell. It’s balsamic, cozy and fresh in a way, but on the other side, it’s also dark, warm, smoky and earthy. Powerful yet refined. A contrasting interplay of shades and nuances which makes this gem still innovative and totally wearable today. The only “vintage mark”, apart from some traditional accords, is mostly the aldehydes note, which is quite bold and provides its “signature” metallic feel all over, but it’s an enjoyable old-school touch I would not consider a flaw (well, perhaps after a while). I see this sometimes on sale at crazy prices; it’s not *that* masterpiece for me, but it’s surely worth it if you find it for a decent price (e.g., one euro and something per milliliter? My opinion, of course).
Gorgeous 70`s fougere scent full of herbal aromatic moss, lavender, geranium and carnation. If you are fortunate enough to see the vintage formula, get it!
An example of what masculine fougere scents were like in its day.
An absolute must for a fougere lover like myself.
Longevity of about 4 hours and medium sillage.
The old formulation:
A delightful blast of orange, lemon and lavender open he show very nicely.The middle notes are more on the green and flowery side, with carnation and geranium discernible, where against the base has a restrained vanilla character that is never too intrusive or cloying. Towards the end I get a hint of a very gentle mossy note. This all is exceedingly well blended and of great quality, with just the base being a bit unexciting on my skin. Whilst more on the restrained side, silage and projection are acceptable, and the longevity is very good and over five hours, the last hour being very close to my skin though. A great scent of a fougère character, which wears well in spring.
I write for the version Vintage 70s.
I'm in love with this fragrance, which I have heard much sought after by a collector.
In fact, the '80s version is weak and less natural than the original, and the current version is really a joke, because of the real Captain Molyneux in name only.
Oak moss and lavender on a powdery base of vanilla, with a slight touch of civet, remind me of ancient and unsurpassed Guerlains.
Molyneux had here a great perfume, and bottle Dinand, unsettling quality.