In rating this fragrance, it's hard not to bear in mind Luca Turin's respective reviews of CPM and CPM concentre (as was then); and whether the concentre is the same as the contemporary parfum, or what - there seems to be no consensus on this on these or any other pages.
Assuming a strong fraternity between the concentre and the parfum, it's difficult to come to terms with Turin's one-star review, when the EDT receives the full five. My view is that the stronger version is still worthy of say four stars (and a thumbs up here).
From the EDT, I get an immediate, pervasive, and disconcertingly accurate version of Pledge (or furniture polish, for you non-Brits). However, over time it dries down to a superb rendition of dry, crisp woods that suit my taste exactly.
The EDP / Concentre performs on me in a more linear fashion, immediately front-loading those components that are meant to 'strengthen' or 'concentrate' the blend. That means, not least, that a dose of vanilla is there from the very beginning and I imagine for some would mean a rather choked or heavy effect. However, the flip-side is that no one will ever mistake this for any kind of household cleaning product. The end result is of a pleasant, full, and smooth scent that doesn't develop much and is of high quality but hard to love. I also find that the EDP is not, for me, a great choice for casual wear, but good for work or formal situations.
I'll happily get the use out of the bottle but the payoff is that I want to explore the EDT version in much more detail.
Great old style frag. Citrus top vanilla drydown. Not unlike Eau Sauvage. Has more spices and animalic element (I have vintage 1989 version) . Great longevity.
Early 80's I received a gift of Pour Monsieur. Dismissed it as I had Eau Sauvage for this kind of thing. Traded it off for a small bottle of Grand Marnier.
Dismissed the Concentree as I was a Tiffany guy.
Fast forward 30 odd years and a whiff of this in Vintage and I'm shaking my head at my ignorance.
This is absolutely stunning. It's Eau Sauvage in tails. Gonna get me some of that!!
CPM is a very nice woodsy oriental with a powdery vanilla base. It's an excellent composition of very high quality, but it reminds me of several fragrances that I already own. Most notably, I get a strong sense of Chanel's Allure Homme, especially in the dry down. I own Allure and find it to be one of my most versatile year round fragrances. However, I don't want to purchase a fragrance from the very same house and designer that conjures such olfactory affiliation. Good fragrance none the less, thumbs up, but a non-buy for me.
I love Chanel, usually, but not Pour Monsieur Concentree. I'm neutral leaning thumbs down. I would describe it as unpleasant and slightly harsh.
Update: I initially wore the version in a tester labelled edt concentree in 2015, while the name change to edp was in the boxes being sold; i.e., the last vesion of edt concentree before the name change.
Now, trying a version from the 90s, I'm a fan, and would give this older formulation an enthusiastic thumbs up. The reformation on this one is disappointing, but the original is a nice flanker.
05th July, 2015 (last edited: 09th August, 2015)
I hadn't tried the original concentration, so I was a little skeptical when trying Chanel Pour Monsieur Concentrée for the first time. Upon first spray, it's an obviously masculine but not overwhelming combination of citrus and spice, and within its dry down, it's clear that it probably has year-round and day/night versatility as well. I like it to Ralph Lauren's Safari in this respect: it's sophisticated and classic, being just enough "old man" but also fresh to create a fragrance that can really be a signature.
The lavender/mandarin opening create a sharp, fresh, and slightly sweet mix that is well-grounded by the cardomom and vetiver, which constitute the earthy, spicy accord. I don't specifically detect the vanilla.
Projection is moderate and longevity is great for an EDT, or good, for an EDP. There seems to be a little confusion about the concentration (even on the Chanel website, which describes it as an EDT but shows the bottle with EDP), but regardless, it's a decently strong but not overwhelming scent that is in the sweet spot of concentration without being a powerhouse ala Tom Ford Private Blend.
I think all men need to try this to see if it's in their wheelhouse. It may not suit a young man, but I imagine it would work well for many men, given that it's a mix of several different categories and keeps the ingredients well in balance.
8 out of 10