Chevalier d'Orsay (1911)
by D'Orsay

Well, a reasonable interval has passed since my "neutral" review of Chevalier D'Orsay, and after the passage of a year, I must change my vote to an enthusiastic thumbs up! The reason for this change had nothing to do with an adjustment in my sense of the Cd'O that I purchased; it was the fact that I tried and ended up purchasing a new 100ml bottle in NYC that smelled much better than the smaller bottle I had previously bought on-line. The web product was sweeter and more subdued, nice but not really great, and was a little too feminine for me. In fact, I believe it was an old bottle, and "past its sell by date". The bottle from Bergdorf's was made up of mostly of the same notes, but was fresh with a more dominant lavender and other "masculine" elements completely changed the overall accord for me, and gave it a sharper edge. This new bottle is a great fragrance, and it is now one of my signature fragrances. Rich, warm, subtle, but not tired and truly wonderful. I agree with all the positive reviews that came before, and disavow my prior vote,based upon this newly discovered "evidence". The appeal is granted. Chevalier d'Orsay wins. Right has been done.

Hmm. This was definately a beautiful scent when it was introduced and for years after. But I think nowadays there is obviously a cheap synthetic copy of this scent in certain germicides that are used in public lavatories. What a pity! I think it is not wearable any longer.

I have a sealed bottle of vintage 1930s Chevalier by D'Orsay, but I can smell the fragrance at the top of the neck, I think it smells absolutely divine. For me it is a powdery, floriental with amber & leather scent. I can definitey smell the spiciness of incense, nutmeg and carnation. I dont get the citrusy smells, probably because it is the old formulation and not the reorchestrated version. The juice has turned into a very dark brown, almost sepia toned.

Had high hopes with this one, but ultimately was disappointed. The opening is a very nicely concocted citrus and herbal mixture, but from then on, I'm not inspired. I am not keen on the overtly 'masculine' lavender that penetrates throughout -- it's slightly musty imo -- I realise the scent formula is old, but it just smells 'old'. The florals and wood that try and poke through later don't really underpin very well, especially the iris. I seem to be the 'party pooper' here and, to be fair, a lot of the notes used are not great favourites of mine -- nevertheless I won't be purchasing.

Kaern

Masterfully elegant opening like a even more refined Homme de Gres with a dry woody citrus. A wonderful alternative to Homme de Gres since that's been discontinued and Chevalier d'Orsay's been re-introduced. Chevalier d'Orsay is very suitable for an evening for a mature wearer but light enough for daily wear.

I have revised my review. In the earlier note, I was working off a sample, and talked impressionistically of "burnished gold tones." Now I have a bottle, and a different take. Chevalier has a beautiful citrus-spice-herb opening. It is a complex scent, with so many ingredients. The middle is a dusty sort of spice, light and airy. The middle is not sweet, but there are florals and a restrained sort of powdery aspect. The base has pine and a dry incense note. The base is very dry and airy: cool, aloof, very intriguing. This is dry and light enough to wear during the day. It is interesting and complex with character, so it is also suitable for evening wear.