Chevalier d'Orsay (1911)
by D'Orsay

Had high hopes with this one, but ultimately was disappointed. The opening is a very nicely concocted citrus and herbal mixture, but from then on, I'm not inspired. I am not keen on the overtly 'masculine' lavender that penetrates throughout -- it's slightly musty imo -- I realise the scent formula is old, but it just smells 'old'. The florals and wood that try and poke through later don't really underpin very well, especially the iris. I seem to be the 'party pooper' here and, to be fair, a lot of the notes used are not great favourites of mine -- nevertheless I won't be purchasing.

Kaern

Masterfully elegant opening like a even more refined Homme de Gres with a dry woody citrus. A wonderful alternative to Homme de Gres since that's been discontinued and Chevalier d'Orsay's been re-introduced. Chevalier d'Orsay is very suitable for an evening for a mature wearer but light enough for daily wear.

Well, a reasonable interval has passed since my "neutral" review of Chevalier D'Orsay, and after the passage of a year, I must change my vote to an enthusiastic thumbs up! The reason for this change had nothing to do with an adjustment in my sense of the Cd'O that I purchased; it was the fact that I tried and ended up purchasing a new 100ml bottle in NYC that smelled much better than the smaller bottle I had previously bought on-line. The web product was sweeter and more subdued, nice but not really great, and was a little too feminine for me. In fact, I believe it was an old bottle, and "past its sell by date". The bottle from Bergdorf's was made up of mostly of the same notes, but was fresh with a more dominant lavender and other "masculine" elements completely changed the overall accord for me, and gave it a sharper edge. This new bottle is a great fragrance, and it is now one of my signature fragrances. Rich, warm, subtle, but not tired and truly wonderful. I agree with all the positive reviews that came before, and disavow my prior vote,based upon this newly discovered "evidence". The appeal is granted. Chevalier d'Orsay wins. Right has been done.

I have revised my review. In the earlier note, I was working off a sample, and talked impressionistically of "burnished gold tones." Now I have a bottle, and a different take. Chevalier has a beautiful citrus-spice-herb opening. It is a complex scent, with so many ingredients. The middle is a dusty sort of spice, light and airy. The middle is not sweet, but there are florals and a restrained sort of powdery aspect. The base has pine and a dry incense note. The base is very dry and airy: cool, aloof, very intriguing. This is dry and light enough to wear during the day. It is interesting and complex with character, so it is also suitable for evening wear.

Chevalier opens with a marvelous blend of citrus, herbs, and lavender that soon makes room for very airy floral notes. The persistent herbal accord keeps the flowers from getting either stuffy or too sweet, and as some subtle spice emerges Chevalier’s heart falls into perfect balance. The base of moss, amber, and wood is firm, yet light and clear, leaving the entire composition exquisitely poised and elegant. A cool, subtle pine note plays throughout, leaving an impression of aloof nobility.

True to its name, Chevalier is sophisticated and refined. It’s complex enough to hold interest, and confident enough that it never needs to shout. As foetidus points out, it’s also highly versatile, and would make a great scent for those who want to keep a limited wardrobe. The lasting power is quite reasonable, thanks to the lingering pine and amber in the base, and the moderate projection is just enough to be noticed but never offend – a truly well composed and well executed scent.

The opening of lemony mint is light and elevating - sort of refreshing. Then, an amazing evolution of fragrance occurs through a voyage of notes that goes from light to sweet spice warmth and into an ethereal forest of basenotes. The spicy carnation plus nutmeg and neroli make for a warm and enveloping middle that takes over and eliminates the light citrus opening. The base notes have an ethereal quality of sage + pine lifted by patchouli and iris. This is one of the most refined and complete fragrances I have smelled. It could be a masterpiece - I think it is. After the fragrance is settled it keeps a full range of scent profiles. When sniffed from a foot away it's a warm neroli, nutmeg, carnation. When leaning in for a closer experience you pick up the minty patchouli and iris lifting through the pine and sage - very green and ethereal. When up really close the a warm frankincense emerges through all of the other notes. A sparkling fragrance that is very satisfying.