Mugler Cologne (2001)
by Thierry Mugler

Boring and uninspiring at best. I expected a clean, soapy, transparent scent and got a soapy, fruity, fresh, exceedingly feminine scent instead. Not worth it. I would go with a more classic cologne if you can. Perhaps the "S" stands for stagnation--a stagnant, unmoving construction with little to no development?

I’ve put off writing a review of Mugler Cologne because I fear I’m at least partially anosmic to it. It takes A LOT of this stuff to make any impression on my nose. What I can smell, I like: a simple spiced citrus and dry wood composition (with what smells to me like a lovely cardamom note,) and an unapologetically synthetic soapy white musk foundation. It’s crisp, it’s clean, and it’s distinctive. It’s novel, but it’s also understated. If you’re looking for a “clean” scent, but have had your fill of the ubiquitous “fresh” aquatic scents and fruity violet leaf fougères, try Mugler Cologne.

Welcome to the olfactory equivalent of a citrus flavored energy drink (I'm looking directly at you Monster). The opening is magnificently stimulating, with a blast of neroli and citric acid that clears your nasal passages and opens up your eyes. If this lasted more than a couple of minutes I would swap the rest of my summer collection away, but alas, with every sharp spike there is a sharp decline. The citrus hits the mute botton, and a vague peppery soapiness takes over. The contrast is a bit unsettling, as I really REALLY wanted the opening to hold on, but like so many things in life the good times just don't keep on keepin on. It's not that the drydown is bad, it is just incredibly reminiscent of "clean" skin, with nothing substantial, besides a slight capsaicin undertone, to make it memorable. I have nothing against Mugler as a house, as there is a time and place for his more bizarre concoctions, but I really feel a bit of "blue balls" on the tail end of this... why would you entice me so much in the first few minutes only to leave me hanging for the rest of the night? Shame on you Thierry you little whore
-edit- 09-02-09
I still think this a bit fleeting, but I am totally addictive to the opening and now have two full bottles... Yes indeed you only get an hour or two most out of this, but it is a prime candidate for a little decanting for numerous "pick me ups" throughout the day.

"When you have worked all day, really hard, really physical, and you get sweaty and grimey. It's a hot day, and when you get home you get into the shower and let it run on you, washing with your favorite soap, and your hair, too. And then you face up to the spitgot and let a cooler water run on you and you feel and smell fabulous. If you want to get or maintain that wonderful smell, then use this Mugler. It is an amazing clean and just showered scent. In fact, I think the secrect S ingrediant is a 'shower'."

I totally agree with that. top notes are feminine, middle is soapy but what really matters is that pleasant musk base note - it lasts very long, staying close to skin and it is very comfy.

Overall it's great for a hot summer day, wouldn't bought it for myself through but since I got a bottle as a gift gonna use it for some time:) also, I got it from a person who generally dislikes most fragrances so i guess what 'basenote says' on the scent main page is pretty true:]

Yes, this is indeed soap, and is a unisex product that I feel really is unisex. It's cheerful, green and flowery right out of the bottle, and always seems very contemporary to me, almost to the point that I feel like I'm not "with-it" enough for it. In theory, it should be the perfect summer scent, and to a large extent it fits the bill. Still, there's a chemical aspect to it, almost like it's trying too hard to prove how consummately soapy it can be. By the drydown, I can't find the heady green floweriness that hooked me in the top; it has become a hollow shell, an oily residue that croaks at the top of its feeble voice "Wait, I'm still here and I'm still soap! See!?" But now it brings to mind that nasty sticky spot of soap that you missed rinsing off in the shower, only to discover half an hour later. Orignal Vetiver is rosier, and "plantier" overall, with much less of the alkaline slime. However, I'll still give Mugler credit for smelling like what it's meant to, even until the bitter end, and even if it does so in a different sense than when it started.

For a clean and fresh scent, hey! It's actually not boring. At least it's more interesting than Gendarme, let alone the likes of Z by Zegna, Armani and the other 1001 'fresh unisex' designer mall scents. It's neither aquatic nor fruity nor is the opening poignantly irritating; no tear gas lemons here. Still,there are far better ones (oh let's see: Versace's L'Homme, Loewe para Hombre, and Signoricci, offhand)
Comparisons to Creed's Original Vetiver I find a little odd, and a poor selling point. O.V. is simply better.