
Playing off of Hugh Parson's Blue cologne, I felt it would be proper to review Cool Water, since they're both aquatics and can be compared nicely... and, I guess you could make the pun of it being a "fresh" comparison, since it's back to back
Speaking of fresh, Cool Water was introduced in 1988 in an attempt to literally be fresh and crisp amid the leathery, spicy, manly colognes of its time. The effect it had on the fragrance world was colossal; left and right perfumers were cooking up scents to match Cool Water... but they failed. People simply loved Cool Water, and everywhere, everyone was wearing it -- and everyone loved it. Thusly, as it skyrocketed in popularity to one of the most famous colognes in the world, it was clearly one of the most attractive and easily worn. However, we all know time takes its toll on things of the past, and Cool Water is no different, so the prevalent question here is: How does Cool Water stack up to the aquatics today?
Fast-forward to today, close to twenty years after Cool Water was debuted, and take a look around. How many aquatics can you name just off the top of your head? How many can you discover after five minutes of googling? How about ten minutes? Twenty? An hour? You see, the problem with Cool Water does not lie in the formula -- it's a vintage formula, as beautiful now as it ever was; the problem lies in the perception people have of it. There always has to be a comparison to another (99% of the time it's a newer fragrance than Cool Water) cologne, and unfortunately enough, Davidoff's brilliance is often mocked.
People are often pessimistic, saying that it's too synthetic, or it smells too bland, but take a close look at the top, heart, and base notes of any aquatic scent post 2000. Heck, even go back to '98 if you want, or before that... and notice how most, if not all, aquatic fragrances in that era have bitter fruit/citrus top notes with herbal hearts and mossy/light woodsy bases (Those of you who read my Hugh Parson's review know a little more in-depth what I mean)... and now take a look at Cool Water. Lavender and Rosemary stare you right in the face as your top notes, with Oakmoss and Sandalwood as their heart notes, followed by Amber and Cedar as the base notes. Reading over these notes, in a fragrance introduced in 1988, leaves me speechless. For something that was a first of it's kind (Sorry GIT I'm completely ignoring you, this is Davidoff's moment!) the formula is near perfect. It's bewildering to think that people can say "bah well there's better scents out there". Yes, there are, just like a 2000 Porsche 911 is better than a 1988 Porsche 911, and a computer built in 2000 is going to spank some 1988 computer.
The point is, the world of aquatics has had a full twenty years to develop, so there are undoubtedly going to be fresher fragrances. If Cool Water is obsolete, then so is your Yatagan, Heritage, and Grey Flannel. But they're not; and Cool Water is an epic fragrance of immense beauty, representing the pinnacle of fragrant achievements in the 80s. Let's start by proving it.
First, let's dissuade disbelievers that Cool Water is "synthetic", by pointing out that since the top notes consist heavily of lavender and rosemary, they will blush out what little citrus/fruit influence there is -- which is just a touch of orange blossom. The peppermint and coriander, also subtle, fuse together to add a sparkle of herbal freshness to the lavender/rosemary combination, rather than levitating the orange blossom with a spicy sweetness. Had a bitter orange/strong peppermint combination been used, the scent would have been dominantly citrusy, and the lavender/rosemary combination would have to be softer. In turn, it would have been responsible for the blemishing of the severely bitter notes of the orange, and the suppressing of the extreme sharpness of the peppermint. Different quantities of ingredients, and setting priorities for notes, play a crucial role in how a fragrance is going to smell. Lavender and rosemary, of course, are not deep scents with character and zest; they are fresh, clean, and semi-transparent to the notes that lie underneath.
The result, then, is an incredibly smooth and neutral open, with herbal notation as opposed to a present-day standard of citrus/fruit, which is soft and mellow on the nose. The sequence proceeds to a soft-wood heart, which counters the fresh top-note herbal concoction slightly, and allows some depth to develop in the fragrance. Keep in mind there were no prior aquatic fragrances (I'm going to get slain for not mentioning GIT at this point, but oh well!) that Davidoff could base his aquatic scent off of, so the addition of sandalwood and oakmoss was clever. The herb-friendly oakmoss catches the fading top notes and accentuates them, while the soft sandalwood responsibly sets the base up for a proper woodsy transition; and this is where most people derive that Cool Water is synthetic. The fact that a transition is done so seamlessly gives the illusion that there is no change; while, in fact, the change is so subtle that it is not apparent until the base notes kick in. Cedar and amber, stronger woods with their own scent to carry, are prominent here in the base, as the oakmoss and sandalwood (transparently fused with top notes) fade away. However, to keep the smoothness, a friendly musk (remember, musk can be used to enhance the smell and life of other aromas) was used to provide the heart/top notes with a final breath, before fading away and leaving the scent dry, but not bitter, due to the relevant addition of yet another sandalwood note. From top to bottom, Cool Water transitions consistently, but does so in the shadows; where the effects will not be seen until the life of the notes dwindle to their vanishing points.
All in all, Cool Water is mathematically precise with ingredients, inspirationally diverse with composition, and logical as an entire fragrance. Assume the year was 1990, and the aquatic burst had not begun: would Cool Water not be a staple of the basenotes community? The amount of respect it would command would be IMMENSE. What's changed if the year is 2007? Why are there those who dislike the scent; claiming it to be synthetic, sub-par, obsolete, unoriginal, uncreative, uninspirational, cheap, and not worth the money? That kind of negativity demolishes a beautiful fragrance. Has the smell changed? Has the formula changed? Has anything of Cool Water changed? No, it hasn't. What's changed is the world around it, now brimming with other aquatics that are literally the children of Cool Water. Comparing the formula of any two colognes is ridiculous, because they both have their beauties, and they both have their flaws, but Cool Water is disregarded of any great characteristics, because somehow, the tendency in thinking is to assume that since there's newer aquatics out, it must be old and not worth the attention anymore. Following that logic, every scent is terrible, because five years down the road, something just a little bit better will come out and trump today's scent -- which will also be terrible, because in ANOTHER five years...
Cool Water, then, IS one of the best fragrances in the world, and it IS something that is unique, creative, and literally an artifact of change -- but, for that very reason, it has a major downfall. It's so popular and common, that people buying their first bottle of cologne buy Cool Water (Hell, it was my second bottle, and I blind bought it because it was famous) without taking the time to appreciate it as a fragrance. Because of the popularity it carries, the weight of the uneducated reviews pumped out by people who don't know which notes are which, and what notes add what effect, really tugs the perception of the scent down, and drags it through the mud. Cool Water deserves a 10/10, because it was impeccably made in a time where it was one of the first, and twenty years later, it still remains one of the most recognized and famous colognes. However, this is not a perfect world, and the grade must come from more than just a vintage factor. Still, I have no problem whatsoever giving this cologne a solid 8/10 -- only missing two points because it's lack of depth, even as one of the first aquatics. Let's face it, having a mainstream-defying scent in the 1980's doesn't give Davidoff an excuse to ignore crucial aspects of a cologne. In a time of spice and musk, the importance of having noticeable transitions was absolutely necessary, but done short-handedly in this scent.