Cuir Mauresque (1996)
by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

Old lady smell (in the good sense). Love leather and musk, and this is actually a very soft and buttery version of the standard. It doesn't take the same risks as say Fumerie Turque or Chergui, but that makes it a much more wearable scent for the daytime.

11th January, 2012.

This Lutens entrant into the land of the cuir is nicely polished and comes with an interesting evolution. However, given my preference for extravagant and expressive leathers, Mauresque's lack of charisma renders it something of an also-ran.

It is an introduction of considerable promise, with an accord of unabashed leather and light floral sensibility. As it evolves, it softens, and an early introduction of amber is a temperate hand on the tiller. Despite the general trend towards comfort, there are a number of interesting flourishes along the way. It feels richer in the heart notes, and on occasions feels slightly dark, charred and sticky.

Regrettably, as a whole, Mauresque is a little too reticent for me, and as long as I have Knize Ten within easy reach, owning a bottle of Cuir Mauresque would be a considerable indulgence

7th January, 2012.

I´m not a big fan of the leather genre but this one, even being very loyal to a real moorish (and kinda crude) leather, I find it lovely.
The leather has the exact density and roughness that I need. The leather here is very well blended with spices, mild cinamon and orange peel to open itself to a more floral, fruited and semi-sweet development without losing the contact with a smooth morish leather.
One of the finest moorish leather.

21st November, 2011. (Last Edited: 5th December, 2011.)

Deep and dark fragrance. Really "old" feeling to it. Nice fragrance none the less!

7th November, 2011.

Opening scent reminded me of stepping into a musty antique store. I decided I smelled old oak and incense, not unpleasant and a bit nostalgic. After a few minutes I decided it smelled like a hippy shop with aged wood and incense. These are not unpleasant smells, but I would not want to spend lots of money to wear this scent. I smelled this alongside Fumerie Turque (S/L also) and found the Fumeri much more interesting and exotic. And with so many other fabulous scents out there I will pass on this one. Might be much better on a man, so I say get a sample and try it.

22nd April, 2011.

The smell of opening a box carrying new, expensive leather Shoes, with complementary shoe polish which somehow is already giving off its fragrance. Nice enough. The polish effect wears off after sometime so the leather and a slightly sweet, very typical Lutens base remains. Well made of course but a bit demanding in the opening phase and overall slightly on the feminine side. Leather lovers should of course investigate but it just doesn’t excite me as much as other Lutens greats do.

10th February, 2011.