One of the finest among Geo F Trumper range of eau de colognes. Classic and bold opening of citrus/bergamot, floral notes of geranium, labdanum, them juniper and cumin, on a soft, aromatic, elegant woody base with also tobacco, hay, patchouli, mossy notes and perhaps a hint of vanilla too. Although it is not listed I clearly smell a leather note, which may be an "illusion" given by the mossy-earthy notes but still that is the effect – a noble, dusty, refined leather à la Knize Ten, rich and dark, with a "toasted" feel and a slight animalic-chypre heart, but with a softer and mellow nuance too. Simple, but distinctive, utterly sophisticated (in an "old school" meaning – a "British gentleman" sort of elegance, this meaning also with a hint of relaxed irony). Elegant and austere, but not heavy, on the contrary it's delicate – not light – and with a pleasant, long-lasting drydown mostly comprising patchouli, floral notes and just a bit of leather. Kind of barbershop-vibe drydown in short. One of the most pleasant classic colognes I've ever tried, given the honest price it's definitely worth at least a try.
This is one of my favorite Trumper offerings. A dry, spicy chypre, this has more to do--in my mind--with modern classics like Z-14 than any other scent from the 19th century. The oakmoss, spices and bitter woods in this leather chypre really seem like something from the 1970s--in a good way. It reminds me of another scent I love, Crabtree & Evelyn's Sienna, only drier. Far from being "dandified" like most of the house's other fragrances, this smells very masculine to me. Years ago when I was living in London I used to get my hair cut at Trumper's. Occasionally I would treat myself to an old-fashioned shave after which the barber would ask me which of their aftershaves I would like. When I first asked for Curzon, the surpised barber paused and then said "VERY good choice, Sir!"
Curzon opens with a clean breezy lemon and lime accord which is herbal and soapy. It is light and never overpowers and projects nicely but it does not last for more then three to four hours on my skin.
This one is much more dryer than the other traditional GFT offerings (Wellington, Astor, Marlborough) and unlike the aforementioned ones this one has no real smokiness to it. There is a subtle lavender in the opening and some light sweetness, though nothing too sweet. At the heart the oakmoss takes over with force and you are left with a natural mossy fragrance. Longevity is very short and overall though nice, this one doesn’t do much for me.
Today I am briefly testing Trumper's drier, more leathery offerings Astor, Curzon, Eucris and Marlborough together. It took me a few tries to distinguish them.
Curzon is sweeter and woodier, smoke with honey. Drydown is a gentle, Preferred Stock type smoke and wood or incense, with judicious but effective spices. The sweetest of these, but well within reason. Improvement over Floris Elite.