Derby (1985)
by Guerlain

I have enjoyed Derby for over a year and only now do I feel I know it well enough to write a review. I'm glad I waited, because had I written a review after buying the bottle I may have been tempted to describe it simply as leather chypre with a distinct mint note in the top/mid. After all, that's what it is.... but it's much more.

While Derby is a product of the 80s and competed in the marketplace with 80s masculines - and while it has the 80s powerhouse characteristics of strong sillage and bold masculinity - Derby is absolutely NOT an 80s fragrance. Rather, Derby owes it's heritage to the classic leather chypres and feminine leathers of the 40s-70s. Lanvin Scandal, Cuir de Lancome, Miss Dior, and most of all Diorling are much more closely related to Derby then its fougere 80s contemporaries. In fact Derby may be THE definitive leather chypre, regardless of gender designation, and the ultimate expression of the genre. I can't think of any such leather chypres after Derby that took the accord any farther.

It's not surprising the Jean-Paul Guerlain would be aware of these fragrances or trained in the classical school that created them. What Guerlain did with Derby is take the basic leather chypre structure and crank up the leather and add a strong mint note. At first the mint was very, very distinct to me and I could not ignore it. Over countless samplings and wearing I was able to enjoy the mint as a cohesive part of the whole composition, a feature that added twang and depth to the fragrance. The distinct mint in the topnotes gives way to a floral heart and eventually a mossy/woody base, all the while the distinct leather chypre structure never giving way. Derby is classy to the extreme, formal, and uniquely masculine without ever reaching into the macho territory of the 80s powerhouses. Derby is James Bond in a tux while the typical 80s powerhouse is a guy with long hair driving a Camaro.

I read someone recently call Derby an old-man fragrance. I disagree - Derby is a fragrance of confidence. It will come off as overbearing and overly strong to someone new to fragrance, and I suggest sampling chypres and vintages to put Derby into context. I also suggest giving Derby many samplings because it does not reveal itself right away - it's simply too dense to be understood and appreciated after a couple experiences. In the year since I first purchased a bottle it's gone from something I liked, to one of my favorite masculines, to what I believe to be in the top-10 fragrances of all time. It's that special.

A comment on vintage vs. current (Les Parisiennes) formula. The re-issue is very faithful to the original but more muted, as though the volume has been turned down 20%. This formula may be best for those who find the original too loud. I've obsessively sought out vintage bottles and probably will always continue to buy them when presented with the opportunity. I'm not sure how Derby will fair if the upcoming rules take away its oakmoss.

Derby is a very wearable minty leather scent. However, while I can respect it for what it is, it reeks too much of the ‘80s for comfort. Average sillage and longevity but its charms are simply lost on me.

I was very interested to try this – I know it has many fans. I find that there is much to appreciate here. Ultimately the leather/patchouli combo isn’t quite my cup of tea.
I find that this has three distinct phases. Also worth mentioning is that the fragrance note elements are quite clear and distinguishable from each other. The first phase is the opening, which is bracingly spicy and green. It is big, aromatic, and pleasing. In particular the artemesia has a vibrant and powerful presence. The second phase is that of peppery spice, with some florals given a dark and earthy tone. This too is well done. The last phase is true to the scent’s 1980’s origin: a big ol’ tangy-brown chord of leather and patchouli. The patchouli really hangs in there, and takes on a kind of salty, minty character.
So, this is classed as a leathery chypre, but I think that a case can be made that it is a leathery oriental (given the spices and patchouli). Well crafted, and worth checking out if you like this sort of thing.

Sometimes great expectation precedes great disappointment. And Derby, one of the great Guerlain does not disappoint. Not one bit. From a vintage vial (strange, the box read copyright 1983 but Derby was only launched two years later?), Derby is honestly one of the greatest leather chrypre scent that I have the pleasure to smell. I really, really love this classic and shall guard my 2ml vial with my life.

This is the fragrance I've been looking for for years, and the first of so many to get a positive response from my immortal beloved. I've had decants for several months, and finally got 2 bottles (gorgeous bee bottles with atomizers) today (3/09) from Saks. Derby is elegant, though easy to wear. Refined and complicated, though never pretentious. My journey ends today. for now.

Guerlain Derby

It's nice to know that even the big houses can screw up sometimes. There is no bigger house than Guerlain and their inability to market a scent as good as Derby makes one wonder who was responsible for the marketing and whether they've made a better effort in their new post as head of Axe Body Spray marketing. Derby was created in 1985, pulled from the market in 1988, them sold only in Paris, then discontinued due to issues with ingredients, reformulated, but only re-issued in Paris and a few stores and now reportedly discontinued again. To date, I've only worn the reformulated version and that is what this review covers. The inspiration for Derby was said to be the remains of a Roman amphitheatre in Tunisia that Jean-Paul Guerlain was touring. If he was inspired to create a grand, classic scent by the sight of this edifice, he succeeded. The top of this is a delightful and refreshing mix of peppermint, bergamot, and lemon. This is a scented version of the cooling taste of peppermint but translated into an olfactory accord. It is unique and makes the use of mint in a scent like Cartier Roadster seem clumsy by comparison. The top soon gives way to a heart of pepper and florals mainly jasmine with a subtle amount of rose thrown in. All of this is applied with a gentle hand and kept in exquisite balance. If the word floral usually makes you flinch when talking about a masculine scent I think this never reaches the level that this in any way feels feminine. As much as I like what has come before the base of this is a masterpiece of balance. All of the components of many men's colognes are present but they are exquisitely combined to make one realize what the sum of the parts can really equal. Leather leads the charge and holds the center. It is soon followed by vetiver, then patchouli, then oakmoss and finally sandalwood. Each of these notes seems to present itself and then blend into the whole making the drydown into a constantly evolving expereience. This is an amazing cologne. In my opinion this is the best Guerlain masculine in the line. If I had to have only one Guerlain this would be the one.