On my skin to my nose I first detect the dried candied fruit burst, which is then followed by the powdery chocolate notes. I get no anise at all. Within minutes it dries to a pleasant cedar with the chocolate lurking, as it were, in the next room.
Unremarkable and uninteresting to my taste.
Politely sexy. Incredibly complex.
I purchased Douce Amere without ever trying it on myself. My husband and I were in Paris and I sprayed some on him and immediately fell in love...more so on my husband than myself. But I still can't help but spray myself every once in a while when I'm seeking something less sweet than my usual ambers. I Find Douce Amere incredibly complex and sexy.
really is a trompe de nez absinthe experience
I too sort of overlooked this lil gem; tried it years ago and reminded me of five o'clock (which came later); not my thing. But I recently 'blind bought' a used bottle for peanuts and voila! what a sophisticated, original and impressive frag. it does indeed manifest a duality of pastis and wormwood, sharp and soft. even has a chanel pour monsieur vibe for the first 30 min which is very interesting and pleasant, drying down to a soft vanilla musk. great juice!
I can't believe it, but I must admit there was yet another love hiding among the old Export line-up for me. It must have always escaped my attention or was just in the process of disappearing as it is now a Paris Exclusive.
This is a soft-spoken, oriental, anisic, bittersweet vanilla goodness. I adore it. It is very comforting, soothing and can be a rather intriguing scent, too, depending on the situation. I find that sillage is not noticeably better with spraying vs. splashing. It will always remain a quiet but long lingering perfume on me.
I am so lucky I found some bottles of the old Export design at my local store as Douce Amere was not selling well at all here. The wax sample of the Paris Exclusive smells to my nose more of wormwood than anise, so I will have to test it on skin when I am in Paris in a couple of months.
A splendid fragrance, despite its odd position in the old Serge Lutens line-up, where, obviously, it was bound to fail (being too peculiar for a broader market). One of the best!
25th January, 2013 (last edited: 22nd February, 2013)
Douce Amere is the Lutens I regret most being repatriated to Paris. While oddities like Miel de Bois make a lot of sense as Parisian exclusives ( mad, bad, and dangerous to smell ), the mannered delight that is Douce Amere is an easy-going charmer. I wonder why it didn't sell.
Douce Amere starts out with one of the best executed absinthe accords around. Light, sweet, and curiously "frosted", the impression is of anise and powdered sugar on my nose, like an alcoholic "Julius" style drink that's taken a turn for the green fairy. Rather than bitter-sweet, the anise makes it icy-sweet to my nose, tempering the sugar content with a wintry freshness.
The drydown is one of the most undefinable of the Lutens line. Warm, powdery, musky, something floral, something cedar - it's a Lutensiential, there's always going to be cedar - yet distinct identities remain hidden. Scrubbed-clean opoponax? Self-effacing lily? Inedible custard? Perhaps, but all masked in calm, sugared haze.