Drakkar Noir (1982)
by Guy Laroche

One can immediately tell that this is not a modern scent because the opening is rather uninspired. It is obviously intended for purchasers with a longer than nine second attention span. With many of the “classics” the opening is simply a holding pattern — sometimes attractive, sometimes not — while the newly liberated scent molecules marshal their forces to present their real job and purpose; and that purpose is the presentation of the middle and basenotes, which contain ninety-nine percent of the existence of the fragrance. Drakkar’s opening is a soapy and spongy aromatic / citrus. The citrus plays a very small role in the action, while the aromatics — albeit insecure, unorganized, and a bit unrefined — provide the main force of the initial volley. It’s a tolerable opening but it is far from stellar, and if it had to depend on the typical modern mass- market purchaser, it might be immediately eliminated from his list. The richer, fuller, refined heart is a balanced green / spice accord with emphasis on the coniferous notes of pine and juniper. This is a distinctly wearable accord. The heart notes are not really fresh as “fresh” is presented nowdays, but they are clean, full, and natural. With sensible application, they provide a restrained, dignified sillage that is legendarily attractive to the fairer gender. The base notes add leather, sandalwood, and oakmoss to the note lineup in a skillfully balanced and refined accord — I don’t get the patchouli that is supposed to be there because the leather overrides it to my nose. I often dislike leather in fragrances and the leather in Drakkar Noir is what has kept me from purchasing it in the past. I keep decant of Drakkar Noir and I sniff it once in a while in spite of my dislike of the leather note. I have found it an interesting fragrance in the past, but never intriguing. It is very strong and has to be applied with a good dose of restraint. Too strong and it is a turn-off. Excellent longevity. (Edit of 15 October 2005 review. Changed from a neutral.)

I neither love it nor hate it, Though at times it can offend. It seems to try too hard in some ways, with the lavender.juniper a sometimes seesaw. It seems to move at two altitudes, high, kind of clean but ultimately an overall sense of washed.

MassMenace says: "Drakkar Noir is that annoying guy that talks too much and needs to get attention from everybody no matter what measures need to be taken.Some people like this guy, some don't..."

Well, it was worn by Truman Capote ;). Which is just one of the reasons I love this. It smells so good. Simply, that's all. Masculine, soapy and dirty at the same time, fresh, classic, comforting. For me, this will never go out of style.

The epitome of cheap cologne. Offensive and unforgivingly common.

Its official name should be changed to The Much Maligned Noir. The French lesbians, the phallic ads (“La douce violence d’un parfum d’homme”), the bottle that looks like your average shampoo, the silly name, the gateway scent of 80s youth. Actually I quite understand why some don’t like it anymore; I won’t wear Fahrenheit or Cool Water because I wore them as a teenager (although I don’t disown them.) But…I never wore Drakkar Noir, so without the weight of memories it’s basically a new fragrance. And it is of course a pivotal scent and (together with the beautiful Azzaro and Paco Rabanne PH) a baseline with which other scents of the 70s and 80s are measured.

It must have been very popular because it does indeed produce flashes of the eighties although I immediately smell it as a collection of (loud mouthed) rip-offs that Drakkar Noir has set in motion. The most flattering I know of, as some have commented before, Gucci Nobile (on paper a more unflattering example: one of the Axe’s at the end of the same decade.) But what I do find surprising is the fact that, contrary to its fame as 80’s powerhouse, Drakkar Noir is a quiet scent, probably the reason it got over applied by plebeian and youthful fools. “Soft violence” does indeed cover it as Drakkar Noir reminds me sometimes of an introverted, sweeter cousin of Quorum (from the same year.) When used correctly it possesses beautiful whispering sillage although longevity is rather average (beware though: I have a skin type that can absorb the most potent brews.) So from the outside something of a prole but inside hides the soul of a fine gentleman.

The opening citrus and herbal blend is very similar to that of Eau Sauvage, though very much lighter. It dries down and settles nicely into pleasantly sweet floral notes leaving the nostalgic herbal notes lingering very subtly in the background. Has rather good longevity, though i don't get much sillage on this one.