Classy. Big nutmeg and clove, some cinnamon and dry cedar. Good longevity. I keep the bottle next to my Cacharel pH and Halston Catalyst. A keeper, all iterations. 5/5.
Certainly an excellent fragrance: no doubt about that.
However, today I conducted a contralateral wrist comparison, Dunhill Edition on the left, Malizia Uomo Vetyver on the right.
They start off indistinguishable: gin-and-tonic on a freshly cut lawn.
After an hour, the Malizia is getting sharper and drier, whereas the Dunhill is getting smoother, and wetter, with the irrelevant and obfuscatory nutmeg beginning to confuse the issue. Since,in my view, dry sharpness is the main thrust of this ofactory argument, Malizia is winning the debate by this point.
At 4 hours, the Dunhill is gone, whereas the Malizia remains as a tart and refreshing juniper fizz.
Malizia emerges the victor, at £5 for a 50ml 'profumo intesa'!
I have been unfair to Edition.
Where this scent really dances is in the sillage. I simply had not been spraying enough to enjoy this. My tip:use about 6-8 sprays (it's cheap enough after all). This gives it 'escape velocity' to get out of the Malizia Uomo gravitational field, and lets it do its own thing.
Now, you get a rich patchouli/oakmoss craggy surface, smoothed over by nutmeg and clove. Then again, you have a steadfast fougere. And again, a cigar humidor.
Longevity is now 48 hours.
Forgive me, Mr Astori, for ever doubting.
12th November, 2015 (last edited: 30th December, 2015)
I really love these old Dunhill scents.
Edition is a surprisingly quiet performer for the notes at work. If you've tried Halston's Catalyst for Men or Caron's l'Anarchiste you might recognize the clove and dry woods build here but this older iteration is very English, to a nearly frustrating extent; one must be very close to the wearer to notice this soft spice. The fleeting citrus and muted herbs are finely tuned to accent the main accord, and the whole really speaks of gentle composure. Superb use of the cedar-sage duo, quite similar in this context to the later Quorum Silver.
While I would prefer to wear something with a little more presence on most days I can't deny the excellent craftsmanship behind Edition. Just don't judge it by its seemingly two-dimensional opening, as, like some fine spirits, it needs some time to breathe.
Another fragrance I misjudged at first – it may seem a bit conventional, it isn’t really. Edition (vintage version) is a really pleasant, extremely refined and quite modern gentleman’s scent decidedly belonging to the classiest “barbershop” family, but at the same time connecting to several different inspirations. There’s some clove tobacco and rubbery/leather-ish notes that remind me of some old dark Italian leather fougères like Ferré for Man or Krizia Moods (but with a far echo of vintage Bel Ami too), there’s quite some bold spicy nutmeg which seems anticipating stuff like Cacharel pour Homme and Cacharel Nemo, and there’s finally a really classic and smooth citrus-lavender-mossy/woody structure that brings Edition back to a timeless “barbershop” realm. Spicier and fresher at first, darker and woodier (mostly vetiver and nutmeg) on the drydown, with a silky “fil rouge” of gentle leather and flowers (I definitely get carnation and rose) providing a really palpable feel of mannered luxury and sophistication. So don’t expect any “powerhouse” for sure – this is, or was, probably one of the most elegant British fragrances around. And quite complex too, but the final result on skin is extremely wearable, easy-going, versatile and most of all, exceedingly pleasant. Smoky and spicy, slightly dark, perfectly suitable for both formal occasions and daytime informal settings, the kind of “old school distinguished stuff” getting repeatedly ripped off today by brands like Puredistance, Roja Dove and Clive Christian. Really good.
Woodsy clean smell with citrus blast. With spiciness coming through with a hint of mint