I really love these old Dunhill scents.
Edition is a surprisingly quiet performer for the notes at work. If you've tried Halston's Catalyst for Men or Caron's l'Anarchiste you might recognize the clove and dry woods build here but this older iteration is very English, to a nearly frustrating extent; one must be very close to the wearer to notice this soft spice. The fleeting citrus and muted herbs are finely tuned to accent the main accord, and the whole really speaks of gentle composure. Superb use of the cedar-sage duo, quite similar in this context to the later Quorum Silver.
While I would prefer to wear something with a little more presence on most days I can't deny the excellent craftsmanship behind Edition. Just don't judge it by its seemingly two-dimensional opening, as, like some fine spirits, it needs some time to breathe.
Another fragrance I misjudged at first – it may seem a bit conventional, it isn’t really. Edition (vintage version) is a really pleasant, extremely refined and quite modern gentleman’s scent decidedly belonging to the classiest “barbershop” family, but at the same time connecting to several different inspirations. There’s some clove tobacco and rubbery/leather-ish notes that remind me of some old dark Italian leather fougères like Ferré for Man or Krizia Moods (but with a far echo of vintage Bel Ami too), there’s quite some bold spicy nutmeg which seems anticipating stuff like Cacharel pour Homme and Cacharel Nemo, and there’s finally a really classic and smooth citrus-lavender-mossy/woody structure that brings Edition back to a timeless “barbershop” realm. Spicier and fresher at first, darker and woodier (mostly vetiver and nutmeg) on the drydown, with a silky “fil rouge” of gentle leather and flowers (I definitely get carnation and rose) providing a really palpable feel of mannered luxury and sophistication. So don’t expect any “powerhouse” for sure – this is, or was, probably one of the most elegant British fragrances around. And quite complex too, but the final result on skin is extremely wearable, easy-going, versatile and most of all, exceedingly pleasant. Smoky and spicy, slightly dark, perfectly suitable for both formal occasions and daytime informal settings, the kind of “old school distinguished stuff” getting repeatedly ripped off today by brands like Puredistance, Roja Dove and Clive Christian. Really good.
Woodsy clean smell with citrus blast. With spiciness coming through with a hint of mint
Dunhill Edition is an unapologetically old school masculine fragrance. It starts off with a combination of lavender and citrus but this is pretty soon joined and then surpassed by an intense combination of spices (predominantly clove, but there is also the warmth of cinammon in there too), clary sage and a quite complex combination of floral notes. Officially it's just geranium, but I'm convinced there's carnation and some others there too. Despite what others have said here, this really a highly spiced floral, rather than a spicey citrus. The middle notes persist for a long time, particularly the cloves, even as the musky, woody, leathery basenotes take centre stage. Given what others have said about this being relatively watered down compared to the original formulation, I can only imagine how uncompromising that must have been because this is still pretty serious stuff.
The Duhnill Edition I know has this composition:
Top: lavender, nutmeg, bergamot, amalfi lemon
Heart: carnation, jasmine, geranium, lily-of-the-valley, clary sage, cyclamen
Base: vetiver, oak moss, virginia cedar, amber, tonka, fir
In my opinion, Dunhill Edition is a more refined and richer version of Cacharel pour homme which was launched about three years earlier. Here is Cacharel pour homme's olfactory pyramid:
Top: bergamot, sage, nutmeg, lavender
Heart: ylang-ylang, lotus, geranium, carnation
Base: amber, cedar, vetiver, fir
Dunhill Edition is a symphony of perfectly balanced masculine notes. The lemony opening warms up quite fast and leads to a spicy carnation/clove heart. As the dry-down begins, the classy wood notes emerge along with the vetiver/oak moss notes which are the very base of this fragrance. The amber/tonka notes take away some of the dryness and the hardness of the composition without making it too powdery or too sweet. I think Dunhill Edition is a perfectly balanced EDT. It may not be a youthful and exciting fragrance but if class and prestige is what you are looking for, this is the one for you.