Reviews of Eau d'Hadrien (1981)
by Annick Goutal

Annick Goutal Eau D'Hadrien

I love to go out and eat at a nice restaurant, order the chef's tasting menu, be presented with multiple courses of amazing culinary concoctions and roll home sated and satisfied. The next day I am usually up for something much less complex. A nice piece of fish simply spiced on the grill and some fresh summer vegetables always seems right. As I eat the simpler meal I am always reminded that there are joys in simpicity. As it is with food so it is with perfume. I will wax poetically about a scent with overlapping accords that combine to create new artistic leaps of scent. Then there is the 1981 creation, by Annick Goutal and Francis Camail, Eau D'Hadrien. This is the olfactory version of simple, well-blended perfection. Eau D'Hadrien has six listed notes but there are only four that I smell when I wear it; lemon, grapefruit, citron, and cypress. The development is as straight-forward as can be. The top is tart lemon and grapefruit but the lemon is dominant. As the scent progresses the citron takes the lead toning down the tarter aspects of the beginning notes. The base is a clean, light cypress note. That's it, there is nothing else to report but that doesn't mean this isn't one of the best citrus scents out there. Eau D'Hadrien has above average longevity especially for this class of cologne. It also just feels comfortable. Like most colognoisseurs I am looking for the next great thing but along the way I'm going to stop and sniff the simple well-constructed things and remember there is pleasure to be found there.

I stand with the minority of reviewers that dislike this Eau d’Hadrien. It is dominated by a rather harsh and unpleasant lemon note that I do not like at all (and I do enjoy quite a few lemon scents, ranging from Acqua di Parma Colonia to Eau Sauvage). I have tried it several times now and can’t get any enjoyment out of it; a definite thumbs down.

Eau d'Hadrien has risen straight to my number one and I think I could throw away all my other perfume. At first scent I was not able to recognize any ingredient, not lemon, not cypress. I could only feel a shock wave of nostalgia for something euphoric that I couldn't put my finger on, and at the same time felt the energy portrayed by the spooked horse on the Ferrari logo blaze through my body. I heard in my mind "Venus De Milo" from the A Zed and Two Noughts soundtrack by Michael Nyman. If I concentrate, I can at least place a cold gin and tonic with a side of Italian Lemon cookies in the atmosphere, but it doesn't explain the thrill by a long shot. My husband, also a Bombay Sapphire fan, loves this fragrance on me. I bought all three bottles on the shelf that day, and will hoard this as long as I can after it is discontinued, which I hope is a long way away from now.

ALL THIS PRAISE HAS GOT TO STOP NOW!!!

Look, I've tried both versions of this and here is my summary:

Beechams Hot Lemon and Honey!

Now, do you really want to smell like that during spring and summer? I thought not…

[Original submission date: 25 May 2008]

Eau d'Hadrien can be worn anytime, anywhere. It is a complex, citrus fragrance and is completely delightful. I wear the EDP and it's lasting power is marvelous. I wear it to work and to occassions where I don't want to offend anyone with some of the more difficult to wear fragrances that I'm also attracted to. I also just wear it because I love it.

This has been my favorite for 15 years. It works in any season, and its ability to fade fairly quickly, which I think is related to the purity of ingredients used, is only a reason to carry a spritzer and refresh it throughout the day. A joy.

A crisp blend of lemon, citron and grapefruit on a light cypress base. Not bad in itself, if you like bitter notes and if you do not associate it with detergents, even if that resinous bitterness tends to become dusty. But, in comparison, it is very far to be as pleasant and delighting as 'Bois de Cedrat' by Creed, or even a lighter Eau de cologne, as Guerlain's 'Eau Imperiale'.

It didn't make me happy while wearing it. I think this particular perfume is for a person of a melancholic nature that needs to brood. I'm not being sarcastic, it's just that I know there are different fragrances for different personalities.

I had to get rid of my bottle. When I swapped it, I felt guilty giving this melancholic perfume to someone to assist in their unhappiness. It just wasn't for me.

there are better citrus scents as this one.this is pure lemon and citrus-too intense with no staying power!very boring , simple and nothing special- go for eau sauvage ir yves saint laurent pour homme if you´re looking for a classical citrus summer scent or monsieur de givenchy but eau d´hadrien is a total waste of money-one of he most uninteresting scents ever made-lemon pure that lasts for 2 hours - if this scent is discontinued noone would miss it!By a cleaner at a drugstore and you get the same but for less money ..........................

Tart and crispy grapefruit blast at the top brings literally water to my mouth. I also think of poison-green tart and crunchy winter apples and raw rhubarb stem that makes your face look funny when you take a real good bite of it.
It’s absolutely wonderful. The opening, I mean.

The drydown is everything I suspect and feared: It really does go downhill quite fast, and it’s fading to this boring subtle citrus scent that has a notable soapy structure to it.

More oomph! and more range to those top notes I would probably love this much more. Perhaps in this case EdP concentration would do the trick.

Most of these Goutal scents are just way too quiet for me. I suppose I just like to reek as much as possible.

The citrus fragrances that are more into my liking are, just give you a couple of examples; Soda by GdG, Oyedo by Diptyque, M7 Fresh by YSL…..and then of course I love those rich citrus classics such as Eau Sauvage, YSL PH, Ungaro II etc.

Uh, it smells like something I'd clean a bathroom with. Then again, my tolerance for citrus (especially lemon) is limited, so I'm not the audience this is speaking to. Citrus-lovers are rightfully agog -- this delivers one whallop of a lemon bouquet, for sure.

Some say this is the perfect summer scent - I say it works year round. In the Winter it will remind you of warmer carefree and sunny days. In the Summer it will never overwhelm you - it is sweet without being candy and lemon without making you feel like you are wearing a cleaning solvent. As refreshing as lemonade and it melts into your skin creating a personal fragrance that I really cannot find the words to describe. My husband told me this scent smelled like me - in that he could not give me a specific reason or note that struck him as suiting my personality. It just turned into something that made him think of me. My daughter on a separate occasion said the very same thing (and she did not hear him say it....she lives out of state). This is said to be a unisex scent however, my husband said he thought it was too feminine for that. Chemistry being chemistry though, I am sure it would work on a man by taking on the personality of the wearer as most scents do.

I'm bemused. You say it's long long long lasting. The reality is more in line with the other reviewers. Within an hour or two the scent is almost gone, and there is certainly no sillage. The very forward bright citrus with a hint of woodiness underneath is suprisingly alluring, but you will have to get very close to the wearer to experience it.

I have to say this is one of the most pleasant scents I have came across. I like it, but would never use it to impress. There are other more bolder scents for that. No, this soft, fresh scent is as warm as a sunny day in a lemon orchard. Lemon is one of my favorite top notes. Here it last to middle. Quiet a surprise. It is unisex, which in my book renders it a solitairy scent. This is a day off treat, to use when indulging in your favorite hobbies like painting or reading. Uplifting? Yes. Universal? maybe not...

The lemon & cypress are artfull, not at all like a cleaner.
Very classy, but does not last at all on me. Thats why I give it a neutral in the Eau d’Hadrien form. In a more extended form, like the Hadrien Absolu, it would be thumbs up.
If you want something very light try this as the ylang ylang drydown is like the soft breath of a lover.

This is a very rich, sophisticated combination of citrus & woods which would work for anyone, anywhere. Yet, in spite of it's reputation for lasting a long time, this is "Gone in Sixty Seconds" with me. I wish that was not the case with this line, because I like most of the fragrances (they are complex) and would purchase them frequently if they had more staying power.

Definite citrus on top with a heavy woody base. I was hoping for more of the citrus to last longer. The citrus is cut with green notes that smell marvelous but a lot like Eternity for Men's green (not overall). After an hour the only thing that lasts is the slightly musky woody base. Eh, I'll pass.

Nice bright citrus scent underpinned by a green woody note. The EdP has good longevity for a citrus scent (4 hrs). Good for wearing on a hot summer day.

Color me confused. Goutal gets a lot of high praise for Eau d'Hadrien,.

I don't get it with this one. Over several wearings of increasingly heavier applications, Eau d'Hadrien barely lasts an hour on my skin.

The initial blast of citrus is great: lemon without being furniture polish and a hint of green.

Then it's just kind of a confused, muddy citrus (not in a Terre d'Hermes way). Unfortunately it doesn't last long enough on my skin to create a solid enough impression one way or the other or to even ascertain the artistry of the scent. It's just a neutral.

The lemon top is too vivid and cutting for my tolerance. I prefer Goutal's Mandragore, which is slightly sweeter, deeper, and more interesting.

Eau d’Hadrien opens with a very appealing (if not terribly original) blend of crisp citrus and green notes that’s pure Mediterranean. As others have noted, it’s also more than a little reminiscent of lemon scented furniture polish. To stretch the analogy, the furniture polish is soon applied, as a strong woody base emerges from beneath the citrus as the fragrance ages.

Over the course of the next half hour Eau d’Hadrien reveals a powdery note that rounds out the citrus and somewhat diminishes its resemblance to a household cleaner. Some light floral elements (is that a bit of rose I smell?) join in as well, and lend the fragrance welcome depth and some extra complexity. The citrus fades down pretty quickly, so that by the two hour mark I’m left with some woods and powdery musk, with just a hint of fruit and flowers shifting in and out of focus. All and all it’s pleasant enough, but nothing I’d get too excited about. For woods and citrus I go for the richer and far more complex Iskander from Parfum d’Empire or the more exotic and long-lasting Bahiana by Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier.

A very refreshing and bracing grapefruit citrus fragrance. Opens tart and stays clean and fresh throughout its life - about 2 hours. It's great as a summer tonic but don't expect it to be there very long. The opening fresh notes do not change or progress much. After using an entire bottle I realized that other than the fresh blast at the opening, I was just kind of bored with it. A number of citrus frags are like this - sort of one note wonders - Floris Limes comes to mind as well, only in lime rather than grapefruit. For a much more interesting fragrance that opens freshly with grapefruit but progresses through very interesting and clean stages, try Live Jazz.

Annick Goutal’s Eau d’Hadrien is a superb masterpiece. Many thanks to scentimental for the diligent and erudite review below. This has a dry citrus opening, followed by herbal tones. So far, it reminds me of Borsari’s Aqua Classico in a more powerful version. Jasmine-like florals (the ylang ylang) are a subtle compliment to the emerging wood. And that wood is excellent! Here we have cypress in all its glory: slightly resinous, almost grassy, green, a bit smoky and hauntingly evocative. Those looking to know and understand cypress, look no farther! I like EdH very much. It is simple and yet has such satisfying depth. It is classy and elegant, restrained yet very substantial. The highest praise goes to this one! It is so different from the innocuous, fruity/fresh pap flooding today’s market. "Unisex" perhaps, but I think it is mature and masculine.

I just realized that on me this scent smells like Fruit Loops. But I love it. It's like Fruit Loops with spice. Unfortunately it doesn't last very long. I agree that it is great for summer.

The first time I applied I thought--Oh,no "Lemon Pledge." Don't let that dissuade you. Let it cook for 1 hour before deciding. If you do like lemon this will hit the spot. The cypress was a new experience for me and a gorgeous combination it is. With the other mediterranean spices and green herbal blast, a fresh warm sunny lemon that cheers me every time I wear it.

Sharp, bracing, full of panache, would generally rather f_ck than make love. Eau d'Hadrien is pure class, and my substantial 15 oz splash bottles make it all the better.

See Scentemental's review for an accurate description of this sublime fragrance.

Ooh. Hesperides. Ohh. Lemon. My friend, who gave me a sample, said this smells like sitting in a lemon grove. She was right. The best thing is, there is no sweetness in the base--no amber, no vanilla, nor any sweet spices--only cypress. As with any natural citrus, the lemon top note doesn't last as long as I want. The intelligent pairing with cypress, however, stretches that lemon aroma out as long as possible. It finally faded two hours later, which is pretty good for a true, sour lemon scent. This is lemon juice, not lemonade. It made me thirsty. I actually had to squeeze some lemons into ice water after this.

L'Eau d'Hadrien is guilty by association, a tragic victim of the contextual nature of scent perception. That overpowering, bitter cedrat and lemon oil scent has become so typical of "natural oil"-embellished household cleaners, detergents, furniture polishes and what have you, that the first whiff alone is enough to remind me of duties around the house I am little enamored of. Just what I need in a luxury fragrance. If we should ever be able to afford a cleaning lady, she'll be getting this for Christmas.

Wonderful, as a citrus fan, it is one of my favorites along with Jean-Claude Ellena's Eau Bigarade. Fresh citrus top with a gentle, rounder base. Perfect for summer.

boring nothing special,a classic summer fragrance for Nice.

This begins like Lemon Pledge or some kind of floor cleaner, but give it time. The dry down is beautiful. This is a very neutral citrus. If I were to buy a bottle, it would probably replace my current "office" fragrance-- Bvlgari Extreme. I actually prefer Les Nuits d'Hadrien, however. It is stronger and sexier, as the name would indicate.

I bought a bottle of Hadrien Absolu blind. Not a good decision for me! As with nearly every Goutal I have sampled, it starts off with an incredibly harsh, bitter blast of topnotes. In this case, a very bitter citrus and wood smell. As it dries down it does soften, but the bitterness remains, and to that, arrives a musty, almost mildew-like smell. It lasts fairly well for a citrus scent, like 4-5 hours...it is an EDP after all. It projects way too much for my tastes, given what it is that it is projecting! Just for the record, I'm not commenting on the quality of the components or the composition here, just stating my experience and opinion. This is simply not my style of scent. If you like sharp, raw, and even bitter citrus scents, then check out Goutal's works. For a sweeter (and to my nose even more natural) take on the same raw sort of scent, try some of i Profumi di Firenze's fragrances, especially Costa Mediterranea.

after a few years owning this fragrance and really mulling it over I have decided to give it a thumbs up. It is a bit like a lemon detergent at first spray, but the lemon smell is very natural, comparable to crown's "imperial" and the natural earthy tones on the drydown definatley save it, in fact more than save it, they make it a great fragrance.

If you thinking of buying this. Buy the absolute version. It is much better. The only thing I like about this one is the name. Very classy.
benb

Thank you, Scentemental, for the great review and clarifications! I certainly can't add much to that except to say that I wore Eau d'Hadrien edt (in the "women's" bottle) last summer when it was the only fragrance I owned that I could bear in extreme heat and humidity. I would sleep in it, too. But I also wore it over the winter when I wanted a simple clean fragrance. I wouldn't have tried it except that Nordstrom didn't have Diorella and the SA steered me toward Eau d'Hadrien. Its simplicity is deceptive, as scentemenal noted, the whole is greater than its few parts. The woodsiness is lovely with the lemon.

What follows is an attempt to sort out some of the confusion that seems to exist over the various incarnations of Annick Goutal’s *Eau d’Hadrien* along with a review of *Eau d’Hadrien* and *Hadrien Absolu*:

The men's EDT version is named *Eau d’Hadrien*
The men's EDP version is named *Hadrien Absolu*
The women's EDT version is named *Eau d’Hadrien*
The women's EDP version is named *Eau d’Hadrien EDP*

Both men’s versions come in square bottles, the women’s in somewhat oval shaped, fluted bottles.

The men’s EDT juice is identical to the women’s EDT juice, and the men’s EDP juice (*Hadrien Absolu*) is identical to the women’s EDP, except that it is colored a little more yellowish than its female counterpart, *Eau d'Hadrien EDP*, but as far as the scent goes, the men’s and women’s EDT and EDP versions are identical. *Eau d’Hadrien* in it’s EDT and EDP formulations, despite it’s demarcation into different shaped bottles for men and women and different names, has always been considered a unisex fragrance. The fragrance takes it name after the Roman Emperor Hadrian, Hadrien in French, who reigned from 117 to 138.

*Eau d’Hadrien* certainly is a fleeting fragrance, as attested to by many of the reviewers below. *Hadrien Absolu*, on the contrary, lasts a very long time for a citrus based scent; although, it should be noted, it always stays close to the skin. *Hadrien Absolu* can still be detected up to six to eight hours after the initial few sprays, as opposed to the EDT, which lasts (on this reviewer, at least) an hour and a half to two hours, maximum, but, even then, what an hour and a half to two hours. A word of warning, though: *Hadrien Absolu* is not merely a stronger version of *Eau d’Hadrien*; rather, it’s a reformulation of *Eau d’Hadrien* as I explain below.

The first thing one notices about *Eau d’Hadrien* is its pared down structure when compared to most other fragrances: citrus (lemon, grapefruit, and citron), ylang ylang, and cypress, but what an amazing and amazingly simple combination. It’s such a sparsely constructed fragrance with a truly Mediterranean elegance to it. It’s the same kind of elegance in simplicity you find for instance in a meal of fresh, pan-fried fish seasoned with salt, cracked pepper, and lemon juice in the myriad little sea-side taverns one finds spotted all over the Mediterranean world. Anyone who’s had the good fortune to have such a meal, can’t help but be impressed with the minimalist approach to flavoring, which paradoxically produces such intense and clearly demarcated flavors that still manage to work, magically, as a whole. It’s the Mediterranean ethos––doing much with little. I tend to think of *Eau d’Hadrien* in this way and of all of Annick Goutal’s creations in this way for that matter. They are truly Mediterranean in their uncompromising use of essential, top quality ingredients and in their simplicity of construction. They do much with very little.

Now to the differences between the EDT and EDP versions: The cypress in the EDT formulation is more pronounced than it is in the EDP/Absolu version and this is what gives the EDT its characteristic woodsy spiciness. It’s a fresh, slightly herbaceous woodsy spiciness that works beautifully with the minimalist pairing of citrus and ylang ylang.

In the Absolu/EDP version, the ylang ylang is more prominent, and the pure citrus oils are a lot more concentrated, and while the ylang ylang is intensified, the cypress is muted (substantially, actually, if one thinks about it). In the *Hadrien Absolu* formulation, the more prominent ylang ylang note works harmoniously with the citrus and the cypress to produce a very beguiling bitterness. I am always amazed how the clean, sour edges of the citrus and the bitter, heady rotundity of the ylang ylang compliment each and keep the acerbic elements of the overall accord in check in the *Absolu* formulation. Like the EDT version, it’s a masterpiece of the careful, assured blending of elemental ingredients. In this saccharin world of mass-produced, ubiquitous, and artificial fruit flavors, it’s a truly refreshing scent as is the EDT. Unlike many other recent so-called citrus scents, both *Eau d’Hadrien* and *Hadrien Absolu* manage to remain unmuddled by any sweet notes. Sometimes, I turn to them when my palette has become cluttered and jaded with too many scents. There is a bracing, clarifying astringency to them that also adds to their appeal.

On reflection, I would classify *Eau d’Hadrien* as a citrus woodsy fragrance with a slight floral edge and *Hadrien Absolu* as a citrus floral with a slight woodsy edge.

A few words of warning though: overspraying *Hadrien Absolu* will bring out the oxygen-consuming headiness of the ylang ylang, which will then overwhelm you. I have found that wearing both the EDT and EDP versions together, with a minimum of two good decent sprays of the *Hadrien Absolu* and about 8 to 10 sprays of the *Eau d'Hadrien* works really well and allows one to enjoy the best of both worlds. If you decide to wear *Hadrien Absolu* alone, go lightly on the number of sprays, two to three at the most.

Finally, with the exception of the opening notes of *Signoricci 2*, there is probably no more ethereal and divine citrus experience than *Eau d’Hadrien*, but as with all things ethereal and divine, we should not expect to be able to hold on to them too firmly. Enjoy the moment of *Eau d’Hadrien* even if it is brief. In it’s beauty, it is, after all, like all beautiful transient things of this world, an intimation of mortality, perhaps even of immortality.

Light, lilting, lemony and lovely. This is one of the very rare fragrances that has been a repeat buy for me. Once in a while I get tired of it, but I know this is one that I will come back to again and again. To me it's refreshing and relaxing, even though that sounds like a contradiction. The body creme is just amazing, but so expensive. I had received a nice sized sample of it and of course now I want to buy a tube. I also want to try the EDP at some point. Maybe in the future, but at the moment I have plenty of the EDT on hand and too many other fragrances to justify such extravagant purchases. I guess it's a pretty simple fragrance, but that's one of the reasons I like it. The citrus notes stay after the drydown, but is joined by light woods that give it a refined quality. I feel comfortable wearing this anywhere. It's great for the office, for a leisurely stroll outdoors, for meeting friends for dinner, and for countless other occasions.

Thumbs WAY UP for Annick Goutal's Eau D'Hadrien! In the extreme heat of summer, this is true refreshment. I spend alot of time at the beach, and there is no better feeling than wearing this bright, lively fragrance while out in the mid-day sun - OR - after being out in a scorcher; coming home to shower and spritz on this re-energizing tonic!!! The citrus lemon is pure, light, and not sweet. Just clean summer freshness. Ahhhhhhhhh, I can hear the waves crashing already.

This is a good fragrance that can be worn during the day at the office. I just don't think it stays as long as I would expect it on my skin. A mild citrus smell makes it intriguing and mysterious. It is too expensive in my opinion and… Why would I pay so much for a cologne when there are better similar scents for half the price? I won't!

It's an uplifting citrus scent, but nothing that stands out. Very light and inoffensive. I don't see how you could overdo it with this one. Probably perfect as an office scent and during the spring/summer months. However, this is probably the most fleeting scent alongside with 4711. Ten sprays of this baby and it's gone within 30 minutes. It does have its uses though. I use it as a pick-me-up when I have a hangover. With that being said, I wouldn't buy it again as it is quite expensive.

Oh how I wish the initial sharp & icy lemon notes lasted. I absolutely love the opening act- the most realistic lemon citrus in a perfume that I have ever smelled. After 5 minutes it turned flat and a bit stale. I would purchase this if the top notes would stay alive throughout- oh it would be some beautiful sillage. Alas, it won't so no purchase. That said this has a very elegant & feminine bottle.

I am a scent fanatic and own many great/expensive fragrances. If i could only have one.... this is it. I mainly use the Absolu (the more concentrated parfum). Classic.

A great Citrus for 10 minutes...Then, on my skin, wet cardboard...not impressed.

Buy the perfume not EDT as the perfume lasts much longer. This is a wonderful scent. Contains citrus (Sicilian lemons and grapefruit). Also has cypress which is green and earthy and is the base note. One of my all time favorites.

Within minutes of spritizing this fragrance, a rather bubbly friend commented that my fragrance reminded her of 'Disprin', an effervescent aspirin tablet with a lemony-metallic zing. At first, I was taken aback by such a blunt comparison, but I had found myself in agreement. The topnotes, like my friend, are a bubbly citrus zest. However the drydown is the most pleasant, soft, smooth woody and floral base with a surprisingly long duration.

Eau d’Hadrien is an incredibly short lived, reasonably nice, but nothing special citrus fragrance. I just can’t really think of a reason to own this on a market that is flooded with more interesting, and longer lasting citrus fragrances.

A zesty fresh citrus classic that would could/should be mentioned together with the heavyweights like Eau Sauvage, Signoricci, Orange Verte and Monsieur Balmain. But just Like the aforementioned Hermès, EdH unfortunately struggles with severe longeviy issues. Strenghtwise it's definitely more a cologne than EdT. Too bad on such a natural-smelling lovely fragrance. Check out the Absolu version which is stronger, or the Les Nuits edition which is alltogether a different scent, both great alternatives.

If a long wearing grapefruit scent is something you might like, here is your new scent. Enjoy!

Very nice citrus fragrance - refreshing - a true green lemon like no other. Unfortunately very short lasting.

This is a really light, smooth, high quality scent. It starts off with crisp citrus notes, then dries down to something resembling a more refined version of YSL's Live Jazz. Eau d'Hadrien does not project itself at all, so this may be a good choice for the office.

For me the perfect summer scent, you can't go wrong with it..

This is delightful--like the other Annick Goutal scents I have recently tried, this is far, far away from a "department store" men's scent. It's subtle, and dries down quickly, but seems to have OK staying power. This and LV Dilmun have been two great recent purchases for me in the Citrus category.

I use this one just for me. It's a lazy Sunday. I spray it on the sheets before I go to bed and usually use it those time I want to take a shower in the evening after a long day. It smells like a citrus grove near the ocean, but from afar. A very gentle and personal fragrance. It doesn't have much staying power, but that's probably why it has such intimate qualities. Like a whisper, a dream.

Eau d'Hadrien is a staple in my summer fragrance wardrobe. Its light citrus notes are a perfect compliment to bright sunny days in the Bay Area.
In other times of the year, I often use it to "brighten" up heavier/headier scents more appropriate for fall or winter. Truly versatile, Eau d'Hadrien is well worth its asking price.

A classic! This can be worn by both men and women and has remarkable staying power for a citrussy lemony scent. Extremely classy and elegant. I do not regret this purchase.