Eau de Guerlain bursts out with a bright éclat of citrus and then transitions into a light EdT.
After the initial excitement of the citrus calms down the atmosphere becomes one of decorous restraint. But even if the feeling is rather conventional, the structure of this cologne is not ordinary at all.
Jean-Paul Guerlain wasn't trying to create something new however, he was attempting to conserve, for as long as possible, the fleeting effect of the cologne formula. He takes a similar approach to that of Acqua di Parma's Colonia (1916); but where they boost the heart accord right up with rose, he uses the fixative action of EdT base accords, including the trademark Guerlainade, to extend the cologne structure in a different direction.
In EdG the emphasis is very much on the opening, and then it runs straight down to the warm base at the expense of any distinct middle phase. The effect of this is to make EdG technically heartless. Not quite the void displayed by the much admired Jicky - which contains no heart notes at all, but the similarity is there, and I believe his grandfather's masterpiece may have influenced Jean-Paul when he composed this.
The transition from extrovert citrus to musky amber base with occluded neroli makes EdG coherent - its a managed decline rather than change of direction, but the price for this is the muted feeling the profile has for much of its life.
After the citrus hit (and on exposed skin this really is fleeting,) Eau de Guerlain doesn't really shine. What you get is musk, amber and sandal, with a neroli overlay and a touch of moss; the whole of which which seems to go against the spirit of a citrus cologne.
22nd June, 2016 (last edited: 22nd July, 2016)
EdG is the benchmark bright, fresh and clean fragrance for spring and summer. This is what all other summer fragrances should be measured by IMO, especially the "Eau" fragrances. It's citrus, with some prominent lemon, light floral and sweet herbs. Good staying power for the category and adequate sillage. Refreshing and invigorating and brightens any mood. Big Thumbs Up.
Invigorating! Fresh and Aromatic!
Jean-Paul Guerlain's <i>Eau de Guerlain</i> is yet another take on the fresh, citrus <i>Eau de Cologne</i> style of fragrances. These were typically used for a refreshing experience at the start to someone's day. The idea is you put on an Eau de Cologne after a shower or morning ritual, and you could go on with your day ahead.
Although Eau de Colognes came in many interpretations, they often followed a similar formula. Bright, zesty citrus at the top, light, sometimes sweet florals in the mid, and very little base (maybe some light musk). The examples are endless... <i>4711</i>, <i>Farina Cologne</i>, and even Guerlain's own <i>Eau de Cologne Impériale</i> and <i>Eau des Fluers de Cédrat</i>.
With <i>Eau de Guerlain</i>, I feel like it stands out from the others. By including a few unique notes. Aromatic notes such as caraway and zesty spearmint. When I spray this, it reminds me of freshly cut herbs in the kitchen, coupled with fresh, ripe lemon. It has a bitterness and a freshness that is undeniable, and very unique. It's like a cool gin-and-tonic drink which has carbonated water and slices of fresh lemon & lime. It really lifts me up and refreshes me. Almost like hiking in the mountains where you find mountain streams where the water is pure and full of minerals. I would describe it as very "mineral" like. I really love it!
I think that out of all the Guerlain "Eaux", such as <i>Impériale</i>, <i>Cédrat</i> etc. This one is the most unique, has the strongest lasting power (it's in Eau de Toilette, whereas the others were Eau de Cologne), and ultimately... is the one worth your money. If you have to buy one, buy this one. Definitely worth trying out, especially in spring!
This is my go-to eau de cologne. It's got a nice funky musk and moss with the citrus but instead of basil, like many eau de colognes, it's balanced with rose. Good stuff!
Eau de Guerlain opens with a burst of photorealistic lemon (rind and juice), joined by a polite jasmine and a bright herbal bouquet. The three soon merge and then hover for nearly an hour over their crisp, woody base, after which time the dry, mossy drydown takes over.
The accords that anchor Eau de Guerlain are exquisitely balanced, and it's a testament to Guerlain's high quality ingredients that the simple citrus/floral/woody structure never evokes the furniture polish that haunts so many other eau de Cologne formulae. Eau de Guerlain is far from exciting, but it is beautifully constructed in the classical manner.