My first 'niche' fragrance and one of the few scents in my collection that blew me away instantly. After reading all I could find about it and decided for another blind buy, I couldn't believe at first wearing it is a fragrance created during the 80's !...it has so many great notes I usually appreciate in a man's fragrance: bitter roasted coffee, spices, leather, dry floral, incense, tobacco - everything packed harmoniously and delivering a stunning and intriguing oriental scent.
When I wear this, I imagine myself on a chill morning in a torn leather jacket on the upper deck of an old sail, drinking coffee from a tin can and enjoying the smell of Eastern spices coming from under the deck. In this regard, for me, L'Eau du Navigateur is more than a fragrance...it's a marvelous adventure of senses.
My humble ranking 9.5/10. Highly recommended.
06th November, 2014 (last edited: 23rd March, 2015)
Just purchased, and I....... In the beginning I was really trying to wrap my mind around this fragrance attempting to pick out notes, however I failed. This fragrance seem to be doing circles preventing you from settling on one specific note; I smell the fernlike note, I smell the woodsy note, definitely the ashtray note (whatever that is) however, I am not getting coffee...it is dry. Not sure if anyone pick up this, but I really think this has some variation of Mechant Loop maybe the elder sister-this smells a tad bit more edgy than Mechant Loop. It is definitely a man's fragrance however, maybe a woman could pull this off.....huge maybe! Longevity is moderate sillage and projection is also moderate. I don't like the ashtray smell though.....
26th February, 2014 (last edited: 10th September, 2014)
A timeless masculine fragrance
[I][/I]An unwashed coffee-stained mug. A half-empty bottle of liquor next to a worn brown leather sofa. A smouldering stump of cigar in an ashtray. Nobody's in the room but the air, still redolent with an unmistakable presence, tells you something else: a man lives here.
Pros: Masculine but not aggressively so
Cons: It's been discontinued"
into the woods
I read that Luca Turin called l'Eau du Navigateur (1982) dated. He'd know better than I. I never smelled before 2013. Still, there is a distinction between dated, meaning era-specific, and tired, even if 'dated' has a negative connotation. Navigateur might be dated today, 32 years after its release, but it's held up well. To be innovative in 1982 and still smell good in 2013? Sounds successful.
As a point of comparison Pink Sugar is both era-specific and tired, and was hardly innovative at the time of its release. There are worse things than dated. Does this make Navigateur the male equivalent of old lady perfume? I can live with that.
I understand the classifications of the era: loud, spicy, woody as in Antaeus/Quorum/Krizia Uomo; basso fougere like Drakkar Noir and Azzaro pour Homme. I don't see Navigateur as just a crude precursor of more refined hybrids from the more discriminating 1990s. Rather, the ship landed on the shores of a new "oriental" with coffee in lieu of vanilla. One that predated the Serge Lutens new woody "oriental" from later in the decade.
Coffee bridges culinary spice to resin via woodiness, just as vanilla does. And while Navigateur might also have heralded the gourmand era, its focus is the roasted coffee bean. No cotton candy, no frappuccino.
We twist ourselves into knots to imagine that without oakmoss and coumarin the chypre and the fougere are still alive; witness the original Miss Dior Cherie, already redacted by Dior, and Penhaligon's Sartorial. If we want to view perfumery historically, I vote for acknowledging and embracing the extant, significant perfumes such as Navigateur. Learn from it and enjoy it while it's here. Who knows when the IFRA will limit coffee use?
This is obviously an intriguing and well-constructed fragrance but unfortunately for me its central note is something that I find so vile, it had me scrubbing at my wrists with nail polish remover. I think it might be the coffee interacting with the leather accord. It's a shame because, sniffed from the bottle, it has a lovely and intriguing air that reminds me a little of London streets in autumn: Plane tree fruit and leaves mixed with petrol fumes. On my skin, though, it becomes the worst, most stifling barbershop scent ever. And longevity is insane.
A bone-dry fragrance which smells mainly of dark coffee, incense and sharp spices (mace, cumin). This combination creates the illusion that those beans have been a mite over-roasted, verging on the bitter. I do not detect any significant soapiness nor gourmand flavour. Longevity is excellent, 12 hours at least, and the coffee aroma is present throughout. Low sillage makes for an office-friendly exotic option.